Skin science article
Two Poles Cica Face Cream Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer
Two Poles Cica Face Cream Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This anti-aging moisturize
Two Poles Cica Face Cream Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Niacinamide
Propanediol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Panthenol
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Sodium Hyaluronate
Bisabolol
Allantoin
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butylene Glycol
Cholesterol
Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Caprylyl Glycol
Propylene Glycol
Citric Acid
Tetraacetylphytosphingosine
Potassium Sorbate
Glycosphingolipids
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Stearic Acid
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Benzoate
Acetyl Glutamine
Lecithin
Sodium Levulinate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Panthenol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Cholesterol, Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Potassium Sorbate, Glycosphingolipids, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Acetyl Glutamine, Lecithin, Sodium Levulinate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Parfum
Squalane
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Gigartina Stellata Extract
Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate
Tridecapeptide-1
Oligopeptide-1
Sodium Phytate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Cyanocobalamin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Dimethicone, Squalane, Glycerin, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Gigartina Stellata Extract, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Tridecapeptide-1, Oligopeptide-1, Sodium Phytate, Propanediol, Lecithin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Cyanocobalamin, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!