Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

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Typology Mattifying Serum 10% Azelaic Acid Versus Geek & Gorgeous aPAD 20% Azeclair Serum

Typology Mattifying Serum 10% Azelaic Acid Versus Geek & Gorgeous aPAD 20% Azeclair Serum This oil-control serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and clear breakouts. This calming serum is formulated around Potassium Azeloyl

Typology Mattifying Serum 10% Azelaic Acid Versus Geek & Gorgeous aPAD 20% Azeclair Serum

This oil-control serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and clear breakouts.

This calming serum is formulated around Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to calm redness and balance excess oil.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Azelaic Acid

Glycerin

Bambusa Arundinacea Juice

1,2-Hexanediol

Xanthan Gum

Zinc PCA

Sodium Benzoate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Azelaic Acid, Glycerin, Bambusa Arundinacea Juice, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xanthan Gum, Zinc PCA, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Propanediol

Methyl Gluceth-20

Allantoin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
  3. 03Propanediol
  4. 04Glycerin
  5. 05Methyl Gluceth-20
  6. 06Allantoin
  7. 07Hydroxyethylcellulose
  8. 08Xanthan Gum
  9. 09Citric Acid
  10. 10Ethylhexylglycerin
  11. 11Phenoxyethanol
  12. 12Water, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
  13. 13Azelaic Acid
  14. 14Isopropyl Alcohol
  15. 15Isopentyldiol
  16. 16Niacinamide
  17. 17Zinc Gluconate
  18. 18Dicaprylyl Ether
  19. 19Salicylic Acid
  20. 20Parfum
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side