U beauty The Super Hydrator Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream

U beauty The Super Hydrator Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Squalane

Pentylene Glycol

Octyldodecanol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Persea Gratissima Oil

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Sorbitol

Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil

Methyldihydrojasmonate

Magnesium Sulfate

Panthenol

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Beta-Glucan

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Linoleic Acid

Oleic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Superoxide Dismutase

Glycolic Acid

Lactobionic Acid

Glutathione

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Dextran

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Acetyl Hexapeptide-37

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Cera Alba

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Cera/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate

Butylene Glycol

Mica

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Titanium Dioxide

Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate

Propylene Carbonate

Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenethyl Alcohol

Water, Squalane, Pentylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Sorbitol, Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Magnesium Sulfate, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Superoxide Dismutase, Glycolic Acid, Lactobionic Acid, Glutathione, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Dextran, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Cera Alba, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Cera/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Butylene Glycol, Mica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Titanium Dioxide, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Propylene Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenethyl Alcohol

Glycerin

Olus Oil

Cetyl Lactate

Propanediol

C12-16 Alcohols

Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer

Squalene

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate

Glycine Soja Extract

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Citric Acid

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Phytosterols

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Gluconolactone

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Carbomer

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olus Oil, Cetyl Lactate, Propanediol, C12-16 Alcohols, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Squalene, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate, Glycine Soja Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phytosterols, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Gluconolactone, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.

Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.

Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.

In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.

Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.

The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.

In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.

It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenethyl Alcohol is a colorless and aromatic alohol. It is naturally occuring in essential oils.

The scent of this ingredient is floral and often compared to rose.

Like other alcohols, this ingredient helps prevent the growth of bacteria. However, its main purpose is to impact a fragrance.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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