Skin science article
Versed Press Restart Gentle Retinol Serum Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum
Versed Press Restart Gentle Retinol Serum Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging serum is formulated around
Versed Press Restart Gentle Retinol Serum Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinyl Acetate and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Silica
Retinol
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Bakuchiol
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Opuntia Streptacantha Stem Extract
Lactobacillus/Papaya Fruit Ferment Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycerin
Lecithin
Caprylyl Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Xylitol
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitylglucoside
Trehalose
Sorbitan Oleate
Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 80
Hexylene Glycol
Isohexadecane
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sorbic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Citric Acid
Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Silica, Retinol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bakuchiol, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Opuntia Streptacantha Stem Extract, Lactobacillus/Papaya Fruit Ferment Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Xylitol, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitylglucoside, Trehalose, Sorbitan Oleate, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80, Hexylene Glycol, Isohexadecane, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citric Acid
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Retinyl Acetate
Dimethicone
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Phospholipids
Squalane
Glycine Soja Oil
Carbomer
Polysorbate 60
Glycolipids
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Phytate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Glycine Soja Sterols
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Lactate
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Retinyl Acetate, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Phospholipids, Squalane, Glycine Soja Oil, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycolipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.
Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.
This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.
Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!