Skin science article
Versed Stroke Of Brilliance Brightening Serum Versus IMAGE skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Serum
Versed Stroke Of Brilliance Brightening Serum Versus IMAGE skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dar
Versed Stroke Of Brilliance Brightening Serum Versus IMAGE skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Arbutin to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propylene Glycol
Dipropylene Glycol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Niacinamide
Citric Acid
Palmaria Palmata Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Phenoxyethanol
Xanthan Gum
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Glycerin
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Propylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Niacinamide, Citric Acid, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glycerin, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Algae Extract
Artemisia Vulgaris Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer
Hexylresorcinol
Arbutin
Azelaic Acid
Sucrose Palmitate
Pueraria Tuberosa Leaf Cell Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Hydrolyzed Corallina Officinalis
Morus Alba Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Echinacea Purpurea Extract
Rumex Occidentalis Extract
Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Salix Nigra Bark Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Polysorbate 20
Disodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate
Water, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Algae Extract, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer, Hexylresorcinol, Arbutin, Azelaic Acid, Sucrose Palmitate, Pueraria Tuberosa Leaf Cell Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Hydrolyzed Corallina Officinalis, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Rumex Occidentalis Extract, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is the salt of ascorbic acid.
This ingredient is commonly used in skincare because it's more formulation-stable while still offering the same benefits as pure ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and oxygen whereas SAP has been shown to be more stable.
Studies show SAP has anti-acne and antioxidant benefits. One study found 5% of SAP lotion to be an effective ingredient for treating acne vulgaris. This is because research shows that SAP may help control acne by reducing acne-causing bacteria and slowing the oxidation of skin oils caused by UV exposure.
In addition to acne, vitamin C is important for skin structure. Lab studies suggest SAP may support collagen production in skin cells, making it a great ingredient in anti-aging routines.
Vitamin C has many benefits: it helps reduce redness, improve skin texture, fade the appearance of dark spots, and brighten the skin.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.