Skin science article
Vichy Normaderm Probio-BHA Anti-Perfections Serum Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel
Vichy Normaderm Probio-BHA Anti-Perfections Serum Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel This acne serum is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and refine skin texture. This smoothing exfoliator
Vichy Normaderm Probio-BHA Anti-Perfections Serum Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel
This acne serum is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and refine skin texture.
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Alcohol Denat.
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
Glycolic Acid
Glycerin
Propanediol
Sodium Hydroxide
PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
Salicylic Acid
Sodium Polyacrylate
Adenosine
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Vitreoscilla Ferment
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Xanthan Gum
Panthenol
Menthol
Water, Alcohol Denat., Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Propanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Adenosine, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Menthol
Aminomethyl Propanol
Lactic Acid
Mandelic Acid
Isoamyl Laurate
Tartaric Acid
Malic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Tocopherol
Bisabolol
Allantoin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Titanium Dioxide
Mica
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Isoamyl Laurate, Tartaric Acid, Propanediol, Salicylic Acid, Malic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.