Vitamasques Lip Butter Balm Versus MCoBeauty. Peptide Lip Treatment

Vitamasques Lip Butter Balm Versus MCoBeauty. Peptide Lip Treatment

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Diisostearyl Malate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer

Synthetic Wax

Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Water

Tocopherol

Butylene Glycol

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Ascorbic Acid

Squalane

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Panthenol

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

1,2-Hexanediol

Ceramide NP

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ethyl Hexanediol

Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Tripeptide-1

Soluble Collagen

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Potassium Hyaluronate

Parfum

CI 77891

CI 16035

CI 45410

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Synthetic Wax, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Water, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Panthenol, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethyl Hexanediol, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Tripeptide-1, Soluble Collagen, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Potassium Hyaluronate, Parfum, CI 77891, CI 16035, CI 45410

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Polyisobutene

Microcrystalline Wax

Octyldodecanol

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Phenoxyethanol

Vanillin

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Zinc Carbonate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tribehenin

Sorbitan Isostearate

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Lactic Acid

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Diisostearyl Malate, Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Microcrystalline Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Octyldodecanol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Synthetic Wax, Phenoxyethanol, Vanillin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Zinc Carbonate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Parfum, Tribehenin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sorbitan Isostearate, Water, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.

Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.

Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.

Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.

As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.

In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.

This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.

It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.

The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.

This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.

Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.

On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.

Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.

It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.

This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.

Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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