VT Cosmetics PDRN Reedle Shot 100 Versus APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Facial Cream

VT Cosmetics PDRN Reedle Shot 100 Versus APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Facial Cream

This smoothing treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium DNA to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Leaf Water and Azelaic Acid to calm redness and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate

Sorbitol

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Niacinamide

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Magnesium Sulfate

Hyaluronic Acid

Dipropylene Glycol

Polyurethane-15

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Diisostearyl Malate

Sorbitan Olivate

Synthetic Beeswax

Silica

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Butylene Glycol

Adenosine

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Disodium EDTA

Centella Asiatica Extract

Glutathione

Glycerin

Squalane

Tocopherol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Centella Asiatica Callus Extracellular Vesicles

Sodium Hyaluronate

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Tripeptide-1

Sucrose

Hexapeptide-9

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Sodium DNA

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Mineral Salts

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Madecassoside

Madecassic Acid

Propolis Extract

Asiaticoside

Asiatic Acid

Potassium Hyaluronate

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Sorbitol, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Hyaluronic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Polyurethane-15, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Diisostearyl Malate, Sorbitan Olivate, Synthetic Beeswax, Silica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Butylene Glycol, Adenosine, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Disodium EDTA, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glutathione, Glycerin, Squalane, Tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Centella Asiatica Callus Extracellular Vesicles, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Tripeptide-1, Sucrose, Hexapeptide-9, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Sodium DNA, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Mineral Salts, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Propolis Extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate

Centella Asiatica Leaf Water

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Azelaic Acid

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Stearic Acid

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Trideceth-10

Glyceryl Stearate

Beeswax

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Betaine

Trehalose

Citric Acid

Nelumbo Nucifera Extract

Artemisia Annua Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Beta-Glucan

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Propanediol

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Azelaic Acid, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stearic Acid, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10, Silica, Glyceryl Stearate, Beeswax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Betaine, Trehalose, Citric Acid, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Squalane, Beta-Glucan, Dipropylene Glycol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Asiatic Acid is one of the four main actives found in Centella Asiatica. Its headline job is stimulating collagen.

Lab tests on human skin cells show Asiatic Acid tells your skin to make more collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm and bouncy.

It also calms inflammation and acts as an antioxidant so it can help skin heal faster, rebuild itself, and repair a damaged barrier.

And on naming, even though "acid" is in the name, it's nothing like an AHA or BHA exfoliant. It's a gentle firming and soothing ingredient that supports your skin barrier.

Concentration-wise, Asiatic Acid is potent at very low doses and usually shows up as a small fraction of a broader centella extract.

Analyses of centella material put Asiatic Acid reported in the range of 0.2-3% of the extract.

This ingredient is non-sensitizing and guinea pig sensitization testing also found it to be a weak sensitizer. That means the risk of acquiring contact sensitivty is quite low.

Allergic contact dermatitis does exist but is also very rare; documented cases tend to involve prolonged use on broken skin plus co-sensitization to fragrance ingredients.

Asiaticoside comes from the super popular skin-soothing ingredient, Centella asiatica. It's the reason centella-based products have a strong reputation for repairing and calming skin, along with its sibling compound Madecassoside.

Research from 2016-2025 supports its role in:

You'll usually find this in concentrations between 0.2-5%.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.

Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.

Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Madecassic Acid is one of the four star actives in Centella Asiatica. In skincare, it earns its keep as a calming and repairing ingredient.

It works through the same core pathways as the rest of the centella family.

First, it turns down inflammation so it helps with things like redness and general upset skin.

Second, it acts as an antioxidant which means it helps protect skin from daily stress and damage.

And third, it nudges the skin to make more collagen and rebuild its support structure.

That combination is why the whole Centella family is known for calming skin, strengthening the barrier, fading redness, and giving anti-aging benefits.

It's worth being honest about the evidence here; a lot of the strongest data is on the full extract or a Madecassoside/Asiaticoside rather than Madecassic Acid alone. Reviewers also note more long-term clinical trials are needed to confirm the full potential.

Concentration-wise, this ingredient is rarely used pure and usually shows up as part of a standardized centella extract where reported content ranges from 0.02-3.06%.

Finished products typically run somewhere in the 0.1-10% range depending on the format.

In real-world tolerance tests, a repeat-insult patch test on an eye lotion with 0.2% Centella extract showed no irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in 54 subjects. And a mascara with 0.5% Madecassoside caused neither irritation nor sensitization in 109 subjects.

Allergy risk is very low, but not zero. Centella and its constituents are classified as weak contact sensitizers and some rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis exist.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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