Skin science article
Wardah Crystal Secret Refreshing Day Gel Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
Wardah Crystal Secret Refreshing Day Gel Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream This brightening day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Arbutin to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This barrier-repair moisturizer is
Wardah Crystal Secret Refreshing Day Gel Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
This brightening day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Arbutin to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Butylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Octocrylene
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Pentylene Glycol
Vinyldimethicone
Arachidyl Alcohol
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Bisabolol
Alpha-Arbutin
Actinidia Polygama Fruit Extract
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Behenyl Alcohol
Arachidyl Glucoside
Parfum
Sodium Hydroxide
Glycerin
Citric Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Chlorphenesin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Pentylene Glycol, Vinyldimethicone, Arachidyl Alcohol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Bisabolol, Alpha-Arbutin, Actinidia Polygama Fruit Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol
Oryza Sativa Bran Water
Panax Ginseng Root Water
Hydrogenated Polydecene
1,2-Hexanediol
Squalane
Propanediol
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Coconut Oil
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Disodium EDTA
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Honey Extract
Ceramide NP
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract
Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Phellinus Linteus Extract
Dextrin
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Water, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Glycerin, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Honey Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Dextrin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!