Skin science article
Wishcare Multi-Peptide Anti Hairfall Shampoo Versus Minimalist Maleic Bond Repair Complex Hair Treatment Shampoo
Wishcare Multi-Peptide Anti Hairfall Shampoo Versus Minimalist Maleic Bond Repair Complex Hair Treatment Shampoo What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Cocoyl Iset
Wishcare Multi-Peptide Anti Hairfall Shampoo Versus Minimalist Maleic Bond Repair Complex Hair Treatment Shampoo
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Decyl Glucoside
Gluconamido Amodimethicone
Trideceth-8
Glycol Stearate
PEG-150 Distearate
Glycerin
Dimethiconol
Tea-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
Sodium PCA
Polyquaternium-10
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Sodium Gluconate
Arginine
Oryza Sativa Bran Water
Caffeine
Panax Ginseng Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Hydrolyzed Keratin
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Panthenol
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Lactic Acid
PEG-8
PEG-8/Smdi Copolymer
Palmitoyl Myristyl Serinate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Butylene Glycol
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Oligopeptide-2
Sodium Hyaluronate
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Parfum
Water, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Decyl Glucoside, Gluconamido Amodimethicone, Trideceth-8, Glycol Stearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Glycerin, Dimethiconol, Tea-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Sodium PCA, Polyquaternium-10, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Sodium Gluconate, Arginine, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Caffeine, Panax Ginseng Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Panthenol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Lactic Acid, PEG-8, PEG-8/Smdi Copolymer, Palmitoyl Myristyl Serinate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-2, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Polyquaternium-7
Propylene Glycol
PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate
Amodimethicone
Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
Glycol Distearate
Maleic Acid
Betaine
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Alanine
Proline
Tyrosine
Cysteine
Isoleucine
Phenylalanine
Histidine
Lysine
Methionine
Glutamic Acid
Leucine
Valine
Threonine
Glycine
Aspartic Acid
Tryptophan
C12-13 Alketh-23
C12-13 Alketh-3
PPG-5-Ceteth-20
Sodium Isethionate
C11-15 Pareth-7
Laureth-9
Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ceramide AP
Trideceth-12
Ethylhexylglycerin
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Water, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Polyquaternium-7, Propylene Glycol, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, Glycerin, Amodimethicone, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Glycol Distearate, Maleic Acid, Sodium PCA, Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, Panthenol, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Alanine, Arginine, Proline, Tyrosine, Cysteine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Histidine, Lysine, Methionine, Glutamic Acid, Leucine, Valine, Threonine, Glycine, Aspartic Acid, Tryptophan, C12-13 Alketh-23, C12-13 Alketh-3, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Sodium Isethionate, Polyquaternium-10, C11-15 Pareth-7, Laureth-9, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceramide AP, Trideceth-12, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.
This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.
Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.
While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.
Decyl Glucoside is a plant-derived surfactant and emulsion stabilizer. It is created by reacting glucose with the fatty acids from plants.
Like all surfactants, it works by lowering the surface tension between water and oil. This makes it so that dirt, sebum, and makeup can be lifted off your skin and rinsed away. It also produces a dense and creamy foam.
Because it has a neutral charge, it is compatible with a wide range of ingredients and stays stable across a broad pH range/water hardiness conditions.
Patch testing has shown it to have the lowest irritation potential among common cleansing surfactants (like SLS).
Typical use levels range from 5-20% in rinse-off cleansers.
One thing worth knowing: The American Contact Dermatitis Society named the parent family, alkyl glucosides, "Allergen of the Year" in 2017. The prevalence of allergy is pretty low but be sure to patch test if you've reacted to "gentle" or sulfate-free cleansers before.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because the fatty alcohol portion of this ingredient is not within the C11-24 chain length that Malassezia can metabolize.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polyquaternium-10 is an ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose. It is a white and granular powder used as a film-former and anti-static agent.
This ingredient is commonly found in hair conditioning products. According to a manufacturer, its positive charge makes it great for absorbing hair proteins. The manufacturer also states this ingredient helps with curl retention.
For haircare friends: this ingredient is not a silicone.
Sodium cocoyl isethionate is a natural ingredient from coconut oil. It is an ultra gentle cleanser that gives a nice foam without drying the skin or impacting the skin barrier.
The amount of foam created depends on the amount of sodium cocoyl isethionate used in the product.
This ingredient also helps improve the spreadability of a product.
This ingredient hasn’t been shown in studies to feed fungal acne yeast.
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier. It is a surfactant derived from sarcosine, and a common source is coconut oil.
As a surfactant, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate helps lift dirts, oil, and other molecules to be washed away. In leave-on products, this ingredient is used as an emulsifier. Emulsifier help prevent ingredients such as oils and waters from separating.
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate is also commonly found as a foaming agent in shampoo, toothpaste, and shaving foam. It is amphiphilic, meaning it loves both water and fats.
Sodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.
Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.
As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.
There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.
Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.
It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!