Skin science article
Wishful Eye Lift & Contour 1% Bakuchiol & Peptide Serum Versus Glow Recipe Guava Vitamin C Bright-Eye Gel Cream
Wishful Eye Lift & Contour 1% Bakuchiol & Peptide Serum Versus Glow Recipe Guava Vitamin C Bright-Eye Gel Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Bakuchiol and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. Th
Wishful Eye Lift & Contour 1% Bakuchiol & Peptide Serum Versus Glow Recipe Guava Vitamin C Bright-Eye Gel Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Bakuchiol and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Heptyl Undecylenate
Bakuchiol
Pullulan
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract
Crataegus Monogyna Flower Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Caffeine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Sodium Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Stearic Acid
Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
Citric Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Heptyl Undecylenate, Bakuchiol, Pullulan, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract, Crataegus Monogyna Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Caffeine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Stearic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Niacinamide
Behenyl Alcohol
Sorbitan Olivate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Butylene Glycol
Diisostearyl Malate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Cetyl Palmitate
Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Psidium Guajava Seed Oil
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Sodium Hyaluronate
Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate
Sorbitan Palmitate
Batyl Alcohol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Caprylyl Glycol
Melia Azadirachta Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate
Sodium Citrate
Sodium Phytate
Tocopherol
Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Decyl Glucoside
Lauryl Glucoside
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Potassium Citrate
Silanetriol
Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract
Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Behenyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Diisostearyl Malate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Cetyl Palmitate, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Psidium Guajava Seed Oil, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Caffeine, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Batyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Melia Azadirachta Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Phytate, Tocopherol, Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Potassium Citrate, Silanetriol, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!