Skin science article
Yepoda The Make My Day Cream Versus Paula's Choice Resist Skin Restoring Moisturizer With SPF 50
Yepoda The Make My Day Cream Versus Paula's Choice Resist Skin Restoring Moisturizer With SPF 50 This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Camellia Sinensis Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. T
Yepoda The Make My Day Cream Versus Paula's Choice Resist Skin Restoring Moisturizer With SPF 50
This barrier-repair day moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Camellia Sinensis Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Allantoin and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Butoxyethanol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Camellia Japonica Gamma-Lactone
Cetearyl Olivate
Simmondsia Chinensis Butter
Centella Asiatica Extract
Sorbitan Olivate
1,2-Hexanediol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Camellia Sinensis Extract
Ceramide NP
Asiatic Acid
Curcuma Longa Rhizome Extract
Tocopherol
Melia Azadirachta Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Moringa Oleifera Callus Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Glycerin
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Hydrolyzed Corallina Officinalis
Sclerotium Gum
Xanthan Gum
Glucose
C14-22 Alcohols
Ethylhexylglycerin
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Linalool
Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil
Geraniol
Water, Propanediol, Butoxyethanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Camellia Japonica Gamma-Lactone, Cetearyl Olivate, Simmondsia Chinensis Butter, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sorbitan Olivate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Ceramide NP, Asiatic Acid, Curcuma Longa Rhizome Extract, Tocopherol, Melia Azadirachta Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Moringa Oleifera Callus Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Glycerin, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Corallina Officinalis, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Glucose, C14-22 Alcohols, Ethylhexylglycerin, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Linalool, Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil, Geraniol
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
Homosalate 5%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
Benzophenone-3
Silica
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Allantoin
Niacinamide
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Powder
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Mahonia Aquifolium Root Extract
Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Sarcosine
Capryloyl Glycine
Maltooligosyl Glucoside
Cetearyl Glucoside
Dimethiconol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Hexylene Glycol
4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Sodium Hydroxide
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 5%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Benzophenone-3, Water, Silica, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Allantoin, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Powder, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Mahonia Aquifolium Root Extract, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Sarcosine, Capryloyl Glycine, Maltooligosyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Glucoside, Dimethiconol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Hexylene Glycol, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.
Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.
Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.