Skin science article
Young Goose Vampire Exosomes Versus Plated Skin Science Intense Serum
Young Goose Vampire Exosomes Versus Plated Skin Science Intense Serum This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Beta-Glucan and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Panthenol and Hyaluronic
Young Goose Vampire Exosomes Versus Plated Skin Science Intense Serum
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Beta-Glucan and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Panthenol and Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Carbomer
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Isopentyldiol
Glycerin
Human Platelet Extract
Sodium Chloride
Hyaluronic Acid
Beta-Glucan
Panthenol
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Phenyl Trimethicone
Helianthus Annuus Sprout Extract
Maltodextrin
Bifida Ferment Filtrate
Pentylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Water, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Isopentyldiol, Glycerin, Human Platelet Extract, Sodium Chloride, Hyaluronic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Panthenol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Phenyl Trimethicone, Helianthus Annuus Sprout Extract, Maltodextrin, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol
Hydrolyzed Gelatin
Arginine
Silanetriol
Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Panthenol, Human Platelet Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Gelatin, Arginine, Silanetriol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
We don't have a description for Human Platelet Extract yet.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a texture enhancer and pH adjuster.
It is be used to thicken water-based products and create a gel-texture with a velvet feel.
One manufacturer claims this ingredient to have a pH range of 2-8 and to be biodegradable.
This ingredient is also known as Sepimax Zen.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!