Skin science article
Youth To The People Peptides + C Energy Eye Concentrate Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Eye Cream
Youth To The People Peptides + C Energy Eye Concentrate Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking
Youth To The People Peptides + C Energy Eye Concentrate Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Propanediol
Glycerin
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Citrus Junos Seed Oil
Panthenol
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Hylocereus Undatus Fruit Extract
Ilex Guayusa Leaf Extract
Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract
Jania Rubens Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Maltodextrin
Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Momordica Cochinchinensis Seed Extract
Punica Granatum Seed Extract
Sodium Carrageenan
Adenosine
Biotin
Caffeine
Caprylyl Glycol
Chrysin
Dipeptide-2
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
Hydroxyacetophenone
N-Hydroxysuccinimide
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hydroxide
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Tocopherol
Alcohol
Cellulose
CI 77891
Citric Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Lecithin
Sodium Acetate
Sodium Citrate
Steareth-20
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Tin Oxide
Xanthan Gum
Chlorhexidine Digluconate
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Glycerin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Citrus Junos Seed Oil, Panthenol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Hylocereus Undatus Fruit Extract, Ilex Guayusa Leaf Extract, Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract, Jania Rubens Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Maltodextrin, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Momordica Cochinchinensis Seed Extract, Punica Granatum Seed Extract, Sodium Carrageenan, Adenosine, Biotin, Caffeine, Caprylyl Glycol, Chrysin, Dipeptide-2, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Hydroxyacetophenone, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Alcohol, Cellulose, CI 77891, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin, Sodium Acetate, Sodium Citrate, Steareth-20, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tin Oxide, Xanthan Gum, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Triheptanoin
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Arachidyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Alcohol
C13-15 Alkane
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Sh-Polypeptide-121
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Hyaluronic Acid
Zerumbone
Bacillus Ferment
Tocopheryl Acetate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Behenyl Alcohol
Arachidyl Glucoside
Butylene Glycol
Cetyl Alcohol
Sodium Phytate
Sodium Metabisulfite
Hexylene Glycol
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Triheptanoin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Arachidyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, C13-15 Alkane, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hyaluronic Acid, Zerumbone, Bacillus Ferment, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Sodium Metabisulfite, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.
It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.
Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause.
The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.
These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.
A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.
And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.
There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.
Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.
AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).
Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!