Skin science article
Youth To The People Superfood Hydrate + Firm Peptide Eye Cream Versus Kiehl's Super Multi-Corrective Cream Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Youth To The People Superfood Hydrate + Firm Peptide Eye Cream Versus Kiehl's Super Multi-Corrective Cream Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 30 This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften
Youth To The People Superfood Hydrate + Firm Peptide Eye Cream Versus Kiehl's Super Multi-Corrective Cream Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 30
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Medicago Sativa Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Spirulina Platensis Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Stearic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Lecithin
Ascorbic Acid
Panthenol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Parfum
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Magnesium Chloride
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Medicago Sativa Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Ascorbic Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Parfum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Magnesium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
Homosalate 5%
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
Octocrylene 7%
Dimethicone
Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Silica
PEG-100 Stearate
Propylene Glycol
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Palmitic Acid
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Disodium EDTA
Tocopherol
Adenosine
Linalool
Sodium Hydroxide
Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract
Citronellol
Geraniol
Citral
Benzyl Alcohol
Citric Acid
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Octocrylene 7%, Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Silica, PEG-100 Stearate, Propylene Glycol, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Stearic Acid, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Linalool, Sodium Hydroxide, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Citric Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!