Zeroid Richenic Cream Urea 5% Versus The INKEY List 10% Urea Moisturizer

Zeroid Richenic Cream Urea 5% Versus The INKEY List 10% Urea Moisturizer

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Urea and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and refine skin texture.

This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Urea and Avena Sativa Kernel Flour to refine skin texture and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclopentasiloxane

Urea 5%

Caprylyl Methicone

Propanediol

Panthenol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Myristoyl/Palmitoyl Oxostearamide/Arachamide Mea

C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Cocoglycerides

Viscum Album Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Madecassoside

Sodium Hyaluronate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Sorbitan Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Phytosterols

Stearic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Methyl Caprooyl Tyrosinate

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Tropolone

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Urea 5%, Caprylyl Methicone, Propanediol, Panthenol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Myristoyl/Palmitoyl Oxostearamide/Arachamide Mea, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cocoglycerides, Viscum Album Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Sorbitan Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosterols, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Methyl Caprooyl Tyrosinate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone

Urea

Glycerin

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Avena Sativa Kernel Flour

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Squalane

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Carbomer

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Citric Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Gluconate

Dehydroacetic Acid

Water, Urea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Dehydroacetic Acid

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Urea is also called carbamide and is the diamide of carbonic acid. In cosmetics, urea is used to hydrate the skin. It also provides exfoliation in higher concentrations.

As a humectant, urea helps draw moisture from the air and from deep within the skin. This helps hydrate your skin. Studies show urea is an effective moisturizer for dry skin conditions. 40% urea is typical in medications for treating eczema and other skin conditions.

Urea has the strongest exfoliation effect in concentrations higher than 10%. It is a keratolytic agent, meaning it breaks down the keratin protein in the top layer of skin. This helps remove dead skin cells and flaking skin.

In medicine, urea has been shown to help increase the potency of other ingredients, such as fungal treatments.

Humans and animals use urea to metabolize nitrogen-containing compounds. Urea is highly soluble in water. Once dissolved, it is neither acidic nor alkaline.

Urea is actually one of the more well-studied and well-supported ingredients out there if you have eczema.

Clinical trials have shown that urea creams in the 5 - 10% range can:

Higher concentrations (20 -30%) can also help with thickened, scaly patches but is also more likely to sting on active flares.

Skip urea if you have rosacea. The AAD (American Academy of Dermatology) lists it alongside alcohol, menthol, and fragrance as a potential irritant for rosacea-prone skin. Urea's keratolytic and penetration-enhancing properties can trigger stinging, burning, and redness.

As always, your skin is unique, so definitely check in with your dermatologist.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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