ZO Skin Health Brightalive® Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer

ZO Skin Health Brightalive® Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Niacinamide

Caprylyl Methicone

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Cetyl Alcohol

PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer

Tranexamic Acid

Acetyl Glucosamine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Diglucosyl Gallic Acid

Beta-Glucan

Papain

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide

Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Bidens Pilosa Extract

Tocopherol

Sodium Bisulfite

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ascorbic Acid

Retinyl Palmitate

Xanthan Gum

Polyisobutene

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Polysorbate 20

Disodium EDTA

1,2-Hexanediol

Carbomer

Algin

Sodium Hydroxide

Parfum

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Pentylene Glycol

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Caprylyl Methicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Tranexamic Acid, Acetyl Glucosamine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Papain, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Tocopherol, Sodium Bisulfite, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Xanthan Gum, Polyisobutene, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Algin, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Glyceryl Ascorbate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Retinol

Ceramide NP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide Eos

Cholesterol

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Squalane

Punica Granatum Extract

Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root

Vitis Vinifera

Carnosine

Panthenol

Sodium PCA

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Citrate

Ceteareth-25

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Trideceth-6

Propyl Gallate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Behenic Acid

Water, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Ascorbate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Cholesterol, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Squalane, Punica Granatum Extract, Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Vitis Vinifera, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carnosine, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Ceteareth-25, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Trideceth-6, Propyl Gallate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Behenic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons