ZO Skin Health Brightalive® Versus The INKEY List Tranexamic Acid Serum

ZO Skin Health Brightalive® Versus The INKEY List Tranexamic Acid Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Niacinamide

Caprylyl Methicone

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Cetyl Alcohol

PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer

Tranexamic Acid

Acetyl Glucosamine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Diglucosyl Gallic Acid

Beta-Glucan

Papain

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide

Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Bidens Pilosa Extract

Tocopherol

Sodium Bisulfite

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ascorbic Acid

Retinyl Palmitate

Xanthan Gum

Polyisobutene

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Polysorbate 20

Disodium EDTA

1,2-Hexanediol

Carbomer

Algin

Sodium Hydroxide

Parfum

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Pentylene Glycol

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Caprylyl Methicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Tranexamic Acid, Acetyl Glucosamine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Papain, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Tocopherol, Sodium Bisulfite, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Xanthan Gum, Polyisobutene, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Algin, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Pentylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Cetearyl Olivate

Benzyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Olivate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Lecithin

Squalane

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Gluconate

Polysorbate 60

Dehydroacetic Acid

Lactobacillus Ferment

Sorbitan Isostearate

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tranexamic Acid, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Cetearyl Olivate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Lecithin, Squalane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Polysorbate 60, Dehydroacetic Acid, Lactobacillus Ferment, Sorbitan Isostearate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tranexamic Acid (TXA) is a synthetic lysine derivative that is becoming one of the most exciting brightening ingredients in skincare.

Originally used in medicine as an anti-hemorrhagic agent, its skin brightening potential was discovered by accident; patients taking it orally started noticing their melasma was fading.

Unlike most brighteners that target tyrosinase (the enzyme that synthesizes melanin), TXA works further upstream. It basically blocks your cells from receiving the signal to produce pigment.

This makes it one of the rare actives that works on three pathways at once:

This makes it effective for treating melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and sun-induced dark spots.

The most effective cosmetic concentration sits between 2-5% and going higher doesn't boost results.

Side effects are generally mild; occasional irritation, flaking, or dryness have been reported at the start of use. Overall, this ingredient is pretty well tolerated, even by sensitive skin types.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it does not cause photosensitivity, so it's safe to use in the AM and PM.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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