Skin science article
ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense Versus Paula's Choice Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment
ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense Versus Paula's Choice Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Laminaria Digitata Extract and Beta-Glucan to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging
ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense Versus Paula's Choice Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Laminaria Digitata Extract and Beta-Glucan to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinal and Oleyl Adapalenate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Steareth-20
Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract
Marrubium Vulgare Meristem Cell Culture
Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture
Retinyl Palmitate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tocopherol
Micrococcus Lysate
Caprylyl Glycol
Hexylene Glycol
Lactose
Galactoarabinan
Lecithin
Schizophyllan
Beta-Glucan
1,2-Hexanediol
Carbomer
Cellulose
Maltodextrin
C14-22 Alcohols
Cetearyl Glucoside
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Benzoate
Parfum
CI 77007
Limonene
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Steareth-20, Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Marrubium Vulgare Meristem Cell Culture, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Micrococcus Lysate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Lactose, Galactoarabinan, Lecithin, Schizophyllan, Beta-Glucan, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Cellulose, Maltodextrin, C14-22 Alcohols, Cetearyl Glucoside, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, CI 77007, Limonene
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Dimethicone
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
Propanediol
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Retinal
Oleyl Adapalenate
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Albatrellus Confluens Extract
Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearyl Alcohol
Hydroxyapatite
Butylene Glycol
Cetyl Glyceryl Ether
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Sodium Polyacrylate
Isopropyl Myristate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Sodium Phytate
Xanthan Gum
Hydroxystearic Acid
Ceramide AP
Sorbitan Oleate
Naringin
Citric Acid
Titanium Dioxide
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Retinal, Oleyl Adapalenate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Albatrellus Confluens Extract, Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyapatite, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Glyceryl Ether, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Sodium Polyacrylate, Isopropyl Myristate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Hydroxystearic Acid, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Oleate, Naringin, Citric Acid, Titanium Dioxide
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!