Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Serum Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP

ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Serum Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP This anti-aging serum is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripept

ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Serum Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclopentasiloxane

Dipropylene Glycol

Propylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Glycerin

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer

PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Sodium Phosphate

Panthenyl Triacetate

Phospholipids

Magnesium Sulfate

Hydrolyzed Sericin

Ethyl Linoleate

Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture

Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate

Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate

Acetyl Tyrosine

Dimethiconol

Oleyl Alcohol

Proline

Parfum

Tocopherol

Beta-Glucan

Adenosine Triphosphate

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Sodium Chloride

Xanthan Gum

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dipropylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Phosphate, Panthenyl Triacetate, Phospholipids, Magnesium Sulfate, Hydrolyzed Sericin, Ethyl Linoleate, Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture, Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate, Acetyl Tyrosine, Dimethiconol, Oleyl Alcohol, Proline, Parfum, Tocopherol, Beta-Glucan, Adenosine Triphosphate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sodium Chloride, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Undecane

Arginine

Inulin

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Ceteareth-20

Tridecane

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Hyaluronate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Panthenol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Pullulan

Tetrapeptide-21

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Glyceryl Linoleate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Pentapeptide-18

Oligopeptide-1

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Sucrose Palmitate

Cetyl Palmitate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Carbomer

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol

Polysorbate 80

Sorbitan Stearate

Polysorbate 20

Carnosine

Sodium Metabisulfite

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Sodium Benzoate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Caprylyl Glycol

Pantolactone

Disodium EDTA

T-Butyl Alcohol

Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid

Glyceryl Caprylate

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Phenylpropanol

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Butylene Glycol, Undecane, Arginine, Inulin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Ceteareth-20, Tridecane, Tocopherol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Panthenol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pullulan, Tetrapeptide-21, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Oligopeptide-1, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Sucrose Palmitate, Cetyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Carnosine, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Pantolactone, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, T-Butyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

This ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.

Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.

Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Dimethicone
  4. 04Dimethyl Isosorbide
  5. 05Butylene Glycol
  6. 06Undecane
  7. 07Arginine
  8. 08Inulin
  9. 09Microcrystalline Cellulose
  10. 10Ceteareth-20
  11. 11Tridecane
  12. 12Tocopherol
  13. 13Hydroxyacetophenone
  14. 14Sodium Hyaluronate
  15. 15Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
  16. 16Panthenol
  17. 17Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  18. 18Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
  19. 19Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
  20. 20Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side