Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Ingredient or product comparison

Aveeno Calm + Restore™ Nourishing PHA Facial Exfoliator Versus The INKEY List Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) Toner

Aveeno Calm + Restore™ Nourishing PHA Facial Exfoliator Versus The INKEY List Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) Toner Detailed comparison of Aveeno Calm + Restore™ Nourishing PHA Facial Exfoliator versus The INKEY List Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) Toner. This smoothing exfolia

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Aveeno Calm + Restore™ Nourishing PHA Facial Exfoliator Versus The INKEY List Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) Toner Detailed comparison of Aveeno Calm + Restore™ Nourishing PHA Facial Exfoliator versus The INKEY List Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) Toner. This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Gluconolactone and Avena Sativa Kernel Oil to refine skin texture and calm redness. This smoothing toner is formulated around Gluconolactone and Niacinamide to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. Water Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Glycerin Gluconolactone Glyceryl Stearate PEG-100 Stearate Sorbitol Sodium Acrylates Copolymer Carbomer Sodium Hydroxide Avena Sativa Kernel Oil PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Caprylyl Glycol Lecithin Sodium Citrate P-Anisic Acid Chlorphenesin Allantoin Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Gluconolactone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sorbitol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Lecithin, Sodium Citrate, P-Anisic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Allantoin Propanediol Gluconolactone 3% Niacinamide 3% Pentylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Potassium Sorbate Sodium Benzoate PPG-26-Buteth-26 1,2-Hexanediol Ethylhexylglycerin Citric Acid Water, Propanediol, Gluconolactone 3%, Niacinamide 3%, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide These ingredients are found in both products. Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount. Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created. Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin. Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on). Gluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs. When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin. PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation. Gluconolactone has some interesting properties: In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily. This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol. Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum. Topically, glycerin does several things at once: Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3. Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin. This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products. Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity. Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil. As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively. Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface. This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritation or evidence of toxicity. A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be ef