Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Ingredient or product comparison

Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum Versus The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum

Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum Versus The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Detailed comparison of Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum versus The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum. This smoothing serum is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Sa

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Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum Versus The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum Detailed comparison of Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum versus The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum. This smoothing serum is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts. This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores. Water Glycerin Glycolic Acid Hydroxyethylcellulose Propylene Glycol Hydroxyacetophenone Phenoxyethanol Salicylic Acid Amylopectin Dextrin Xanthan Gum Sodium Polyacrylate Disodium Phosphate Polysorbate 60 CI 16255 Sodium Phosphate CI 42090 Water, Glycerin, Glycolic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Salicylic Acid, Amylopectin, Dextrin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Polyacrylate, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, CI 16255, Sodium Phosphate, CI 42090 Propanediol Betaine Sodium Hyaluronate Zinc PCA Maltodextrin Sodium Hydroxide Ethylhexylglycerin Biosaccharide Gum-1 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Water, Propanediol, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Be the first to review These ingredients are found in both products. Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount. Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure. This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product. This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients. Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!). It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome. On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive. Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10). You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own. Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU. Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages. Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon. Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation. Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts. Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive. Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product. It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine. While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still imp