Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Ingredient or product comparison

The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum Versus Melano CC Premium Brightening Essence

The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum Versus Melano CC Premium Brightening Essence Detailed comparison of The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum versus Melano CC Premium Brightening Essence. This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucosi

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The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum Versus Melano CC Premium Brightening Essence Detailed comparison of The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum versus Melano CC Premium Brightening Essence. This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This brightening essence is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Allantoin to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. Water Ascorbyl Glucoside Sodium Hydroxide PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol Butylene Glycol Xanthan Gum Ethylhexylglycerin Sodium Metabisulfite Dehydroacetic Acid Phytic Acid Oligopeptide-1 Water, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phytic Acid, Oligopeptide-1 Ascorbic Acid Pyridoxine Hcl Allantoin O-Cymen-5-Ol 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Tocopherol Alpinia Katsumadai Seed Extract Citrus Limon Fruit Extract Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract Serine Propanediol Isopentyldiol Propylene Glycol PEG-8 Alcohol Denat. Poe/Pop Decyl Tetradecyl Ether EDTA Parfum Ascorbic Acid, Pyridoxine Hcl, Allantoin, O-Cymen-5-Ol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Alpinia Katsumadai Seed Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract, Serine, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Isopentyldiol, Propylene Glycol, PEG-8, Alcohol Denat., Poe/Pop Decyl Tetradecyl Ether, Sodium Metabisulfite, EDTA, Parfum These ingredients are found in both products. Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount. Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there. It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize. Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause. The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate. These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period. A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days. And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo. There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too. Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%. AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5). Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble. Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons: Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients. Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness. Sodium metabisulfite is also known as Sodium Pyrosulfite. It is a preservative, antioxidant, and disinfectant. As a preservative, it helps stabilize cosmetic formulas without affecting their color or scent.