Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Product and ingredient reference

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream ingredients explained: Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Hyaluronic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobute

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream ingredients explained: Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Hyaluronic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Human Oligopeptide-1, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide 3, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae Extract, Orchid, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phytosphin Show all ingredients by function Water solvent Butylene Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, solvent 0, 1 Niacinamide cell-communicating ingredient, skin brightening, anti-acne, moisturizer/​humectant superstar Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters Hyaluronic Acid skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant goodie Xanthan Gum viscosity controlling Cyclopentasiloxane emollient, solvent Cyclohexasiloxane Polyacrylate-13 Polyisobutene Polysorbate 20 emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing 0, 0 Hydrogenated Lecithin emollient, emulsifying C14-28 Alkyl Acid Stearyl Alcohol emollient, viscosity controlling, emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing 2, 2 Behenyl Alcohol emollient, viscosity controlling Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Dimethicone emollient Adenosine cell-communicating ingredient Glyceryl Stearate SE emulsifying 2, 3 Cetearyl Alcohol 1, 2 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone Stearic Acid 0, 2-3 Tocopheryl Acetate antioxidant Sodium Polyacrylate Olea Europaea Fruit Oil antioxidant, emollient 0, 0-2 Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Centella Asiatica Extract soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/​humectant Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil Human Oligopeptide-1 Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Ceramide 3 skin-identical ingredient Trehalose moisturizer/​humectant Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract soothing, antioxidant, perfuming Caprylhydroxamic Acid chelating Hexanediol Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract Oryza Sativa Bran Extract Cucurbitaceae Extract Orchid Panax Ginseng Root Extract Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil Phytosphingosine skin-identical ingredient, cell-communicating ingredient, anti-acne, antimicrobial/​antibacterial Ceteareth-20 3, 2 Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate Fragrance perfuming icky Honey soothing, moisturizer/​humectant, antimicrobial/​antibacterial Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. BTW, it’s also a food additive. A multi-functional skincare superstar with several proven benefits for the skin Great anti-aging, wrinkle smoothing ingredient used at 4-5% concentration Fades brown spots alone or in combination with amino sugar, acetyl glucosamine Increases ceramide synthesis that results in a stronger, healthier skin barrier and better skin hydration Can help to improve several skin conditions including acne, rosacea, and atopic dermatitis We don't have description for this ingredient yet. It’s naturally in our skin and behaves there like a sponge It can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water It is a big molecule from repeated subunits (polymer) so different molecular weight versions exist (unfortunately there is no way to determine MW from INCI list only) High-molecular-weight-HA (>500 kDa) is an excellent surface hydrator, skin protectant and can act as an osmotic pump helping water-soluble actives to penetrate deeper into the skin Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500 kDa) can hydrate the skin somewhat deeper though it is still a big molecule and works mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin) Low-molecular-weight-HA might also help the skin to repair itself by increasing its self-defense (~ 200kDa used in the study) Ultra-low-molecular-weight-HA (<50kDa) is a controversial ingredient and might work as a pro-inflammatory signal molecule It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-called rheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the what‑it‑does moisturizer/humectant | solvent irritancy, com. cell-communicating ingredient | skin brightening | anti-acne | moisturizer/humectant skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant emollient | solvent emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing emollient | emulsifying emollient | viscosity controlling | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing emollient | viscosity controlling antioxidant | emollient soothing | antioxidant | moisturizer/humectant moisturizer/humectant soothing | antioxidant | perfuming skin-identical ingredient | cell-communicating ingredient | anti-acne | antimicrobial/antibacterial soothing | moisturizer/humectant | antimicrobial/antibacterial

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