Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Product and ingredient reference

HydroPeptide Barrier Builder

HydroPeptide Barrier Builder HydroPeptide Barrier Builder ingredients explained: C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Isopropyl Myristate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Water, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurat

HydroPeptide Barrier Builder HydroPeptide Barrier Builder ingredients explained: C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Isopropyl Myristate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Water, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Niacinamide, Allantoin, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Bisabolol, Glycerin, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-16, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Beta-Glucan Show all ingredients by function C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate emollient, viscosity controlling Isopropyl Myristate emollient, perfuming 3, 3-5 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emollient Water solvent Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 0, 0-2 goodie Ascorbyl Glucoside antioxidant, skin brightening Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate surfactant/​cleansing, emulsifying Niacinamide cell-communicating ingredient, skin brightening, anti-acne, moisturizer/​humectant superstar Allantoin soothing 0, 0 Squalane skin-identical ingredient, emollient 0, 1 Tocopheryl Acetate antioxidant Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Ceramide NP skin-identical ingredient Ceramide AP Ceramide EOP Phytosphingosine skin-identical ingredient, cell-communicating ingredient, anti-acne, antimicrobial/​antibacterial Cholesterol Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate emulsifying Carbomer viscosity controlling Xanthan Gum Bisabolol Glycerin skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract antioxidant, soothing Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone Myristoyl Pentapeptide-16 Pentylene Glycol solvent, moisturizer/​humectant Butylene Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, solvent Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol soothing, cell-communicating ingredient Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate emulsifying, viscosity controlling Beta-Glucan soothing, moisturizer/​humectant We don't have description for this ingredient yet. A clear, colorless oil-like liquid that makes the skin feel smooth and nice (aka emollient) and it does so without it being greasy. What's more, it can even reduce the heavy, greasy feel in products with high oil content. It's also fast-spreading meaning that it gives the formula a good, nice slip. It absorbs quickly into the skin and helps other ingredients to penetrate quicker and deeper. Expand to read more Thanks to all this, it's one of the most commonly used emollients out there. There is just one little drawback: it has a high comedogenic index (5 out of 5...), so it might clog pores if you're prone to it. A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type and easy to formulate with. No wonder it’s popular. Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. Jojoba is a drought resistant evergreen shrub native to South-western North America. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but a wax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? Well, to understand what a wax ester is, you first have to know that oils are chemically triglycerides: one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to it. The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are all triglycerides. Mother Nature created triglycerides to be easily hydrolyzed (be broken down to a glycerin + 3 fatty acid molecules) and oxidized (the fatty acid is broken down into small parts) - this happens basically when we eat fats or oils and our body generates energy from it. Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to giv what‑it‑does emollient | viscosity controlling emollient | perfuming irritancy, com. antioxidant | skin brightening surfactant/cleansing | emulsifying cell-communicating ingredient | skin brightening | anti-acne | moisturizer/humectant skin-identical ingredient | emollient skin-identical ingredient | cell-communicating ingredient | anti-acne | antimicrobial/antibacterial skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant antioxidant | soothing solvent | moisturizer/humectant moisturizer/humectant | solvent soothing | cell-communicating ingredient emulsifying | viscosity controlling soothing | moisturizer/humectant

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