Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Product and ingredient reference

Image Skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Cream

Image Skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Cream Image Skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Cream ingredients explained: Aqua/Water/Eau, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol Dica

Image Skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Cream Image Skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Cream ingredients explained: Aqua/Water/Eau, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Bidens Pilosa (Black-Jack) Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Limonene, Phenoxyethanol, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Squalane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Polysorbate 60, Alcohol Denat, Phenethyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Show all ingredients by function Aqua/Water/Eau solvent Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emollient Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate antioxidant, skin brightening goodie Glycerin skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 superstar Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate Cetearyl Alcohol emollient, viscosity controlling, emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing 1, 2 Cetyl Alcohol emollient, viscosity controlling 2, 2 Dimethicone 0, 1 Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil Glyceryl Stearate emollient, emulsifying PEG-100 Stearate surfactant/​cleansing, emulsifying Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil 2, 3 Stearic Acid 0, 2-3 Bidens Pilosa (Black-Jack) Extract moisturizer/​humectant Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil perfuming icky Limonene perfuming, solvent Phenoxyethanol preservative Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil emollient, perfuming Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract antioxidant, soothing, skin brightening, perfuming Ceteth-10 Phosphate surfactant/​cleansing Dicetyl Phosphate emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer viscosity controlling Caprylyl Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, emollient Squalane skin-identical ingredient, emollient Ethylhexylglycerin Hexylene Glycol solvent, emulsifying, perfuming, surfactant/​cleansing 0-1, 0-2 Xanthan Gum 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer Tocopheryl Acetate antioxidant Aminomethyl Propanol buffering Polysorbate 60 Alcohol Denat antimicrobial/​antibacterial, solvent, viscosity controlling Phenethyl Alcohol Lecithin Sorbitan Isostearate emulsifying 0, 1-2 Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract soothing, skin brightening Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Fruit Oil antioxidant, emollient Methyl Undecylenoyl Dipeptide-16 Disodium Phosphate Melissa Officinalis (Lemon Balm) Leaf Extract Lepidium Sativum (Garden Cress) Sprout Extract Citral Tocopherol 0-3, 0-3 Ergothioneine Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type and easy to formulate with. No wonder it’s popular. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. We are massive vitamin C fans and have written about it in excruciating detail. So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it THDA in short). It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin but also have to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. In addition, vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in the case of THDA, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier. With this context in mind let's see what THDA might be able to do. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate, and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. Third, THDA seems to have all three magic abilities of pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has a skin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. So this all sounds really g what‑it‑does antioxidant | skin brightening skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant irritancy, com. emollient | viscosity controlling | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing emollient | viscosity controlling emollient | emulsifying surfactant/cleansing | emulsifying moisturizer/humectant perfuming | solvent emollient | perfuming antioxidant | soothing | skin brightening | perfuming surfactant/cleansing emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing moisturizer/humectant | emollient skin-identical ingredient | emollient solvent | emulsifying | perfuming | surfactant/cleansing antimicrobial/antibacterial | solvent | viscosity controlling soothing | skin brightening antioxidant | emollient

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