Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Product and ingredient reference

Image Skincare Image MD Restoring Youth Serum

Image Skincare Image MD Restoring Youth Serum Image Skincare Image MD Restoring Youth Serum ingredients explained: Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Cetearyl Olivate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitan Olivate, Imp

Image Skincare Image MD Restoring Youth Serum Image Skincare Image MD Restoring Youth Serum ingredients explained: Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Cetearyl Olivate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitan Olivate, Imperata Cylindrica (Cogon Grass) Root Extract, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Yeast Extract, Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Peel Oil Expressed, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Squalane, Stearic Acid, Limonene, Panthenol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-8, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Phyllanthus Emblica (Amla) Fruit Extract, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Malus Domestica (Apple) Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Dipotassium Glycyrr Show all ingredients by function Water/Aqua/Eau solvent Glycerin skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 superstar Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate antioxidant, skin brightening goodie Cetearyl Olivate emulsifying C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate emollient, antimicrobial/​antibacterial Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emollient Sorbitan Olivate Imperata Cylindrica (Cogon Grass) Root Extract moisturizer/​humectant Dimethicone 0, 1 Phenoxyethanol preservative Yeast Extract Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate emollient, surfactant/​cleansing Butylene Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, solvent Cetyl Alcohol emollient, viscosity controlling 2, 2 Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Peel Oil Expressed perfuming icky Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sunscreen Glyceryl Stearate emollient, emulsifying PEG-100 Stearate surfactant/​cleansing, emulsifying Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 0, 0-2 Squalane skin-identical ingredient, emollient Stearic Acid 0, 2-3 Limonene perfuming, solvent Panthenol soothing, moisturizer/​humectant Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate antioxidant, anti-acne Xanthan Gum viscosity controlling Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols Linoleic Acid skin-identical ingredient, emollient, surfactant/​cleansing Phospholipids Ethylhexylglycerin PEG-8 Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract soothing, emollient, moisturizer/​humectant Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate skin brightening, antioxidant Phyllanthus Emblica (Amla) Fruit Extract PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 0, 1-3 Malus Domestica (Apple) Fruit Cell Culture Extract Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate antimicrobial/​antibacterial, preservative Carbomer Potassium Sorbate Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Tocopheryl Acetate antioxidant Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate cell-communicating ingredient Hydrolyzed Soy Protein Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Soy Amino Acids Centella Asiatica Extract soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/​humectant Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer moisturizer/​humectant, viscosity controlling Sodium Benzoate Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract Sodium Hyaluronate Sodium Lactate buffering, moisturizer/​humectant Echinacea Purpurea Extract Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract antioxidant, soothing Lecithin Polysorbate 20 emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing Glycolic Acid exfoliant, buffering Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract antioxidant, antimicrobial/​antibacterial Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Linalool Corallina Officinalis Extract Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Flower Extract Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 cell-communicating ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant BHT antioxidant, preservative Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Darutoside Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Benzyl Alcohol preservative, perfuming, solvent, viscosity controlling Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40% High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. We are massive vitamin C fans and have written about it in excruciating detail. So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it THDA in short). It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin but also have to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. In addition, vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in the case of THDA, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier. With this context in mind let's see what THDA might be able to do. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate, and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. Third, THDA seems to have all three magic abilities of pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has a skin b what‑it‑does skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant irritancy, com. antioxidant | skin brightening emollient | antimicrobial/antibacterial moisturizer/humectant emollient | surfactant/cleansing moisturizer/humectant | solvent emollient | viscosity controlling emollient | emulsifying surfactant/cleansing | emulsifying skin-identical ingredient | emollient perfuming | solvent soothing | moisturizer/humectant antioxidant | anti-acne skin-identical ingredient | emollient | surfactant/cleansing soothing | emollient | moisturizer/humectant skin brightening | antioxidant antimicrobial/antibacterial | preservative soothing | antioxidant | moisturizer/humectant moisturizer/humectant | viscosity controlling buffering | moisturizer/humectant antioxidant | soothing emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing exfoliant | buffering antioxidant | antimicrobial/antibacterial cell-communicating ingredient | moisturizer/humectant antioxidant | preservative preservative | perfuming | solvent | viscosity controlling

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