MARY & MAY Marine Collagen Serum

MARY & MAY Marine Collagen Serum MARY & MAY Marine Collagen Serum ingredients explained: Hydrolyzed Collagen, Glycereth-26, 1,2-Hexanediol, Arginine, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Adenosine Show all ingredients by function Hydrolyzed Collagen emollient, moisturizer/​humectant goodie Glycereth-26 moisturizer/​humectant, emollient, viscosity controlling 0, 0 1,2-Hexanediol solvent Arginine skin-identical ingredient Carbomer viscosity controlling 0, 1 Ethylhexylglycerin preservative Caprylyl Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, emollient Adenosine cell-communicating ingredient The chemically chopped up version of the big protein molecule, collagen. It is often derived from fish or bovine sources and works as a nice moisturizer and humectant that helps the skin to hold onto water. To understand a bit more what Hydrolyzed Collagen is, you have to know that proteins are large chains of amino acids connected with so-called peptide bonds. These bonds can be broken up when a water molecule is added and the resulting thing is a mix of shorter length amino acids, also called peptides. So Hydrolyzed Collagen is not really collagen, it is rather an undefined and varying mix of largish peptides. Based on a manufacturer's data, the whole, soluble collagen has an average molecular weight of 300 000 Da, while this chopped up mixture has an average MW of 12 000 Da (still pretty big). Expand to read more The main thing of these largish peptides is to act as water-binding agents, and to make the skin nice and smooth (aka emollient). Hydrolyzed Collagen is also often used in cleansers as it can make harsh surfactants milder and in hair conditioners as it improves the flexibility and manageability of hair. If you wanna know more about collagen in cosmetics, we have a shiny explanation about soluble collagen here >> It's a nice glycerin-based humectant and emollient that gives skin a smooth and luxurious feel. A really multi-functional helper ingredient that can do several things in a skincare product: it can bring a soft and pleasant feel to the formula, it can act as a humectant and emollient, it can be a solvent for some other ingredients (for example it can help to stabilize perfumes in watery products) and it can also help to disperse pigments more evenly in makeup products. And that is still not all: it can also boost the antimicrobial activity of preservatives. A semi-essential (infants cannot synthesize it, but adults can) amino acid that is one of the primary building blocks of hair keratin and skin collagen. It's a natural moisturizing factor, a skin hydrator and might also help to speed up wound healing. Arginine usually has a positive charge (cationic) that makes it substantive to skin and hair (those are more negatively charged surfaces) and an excellent film former. Thanks to the positive charge, it also creates a complex with AHAs (AHAs like to lose a hydrogen ion and be negatively charged, so the positive and the negative ions attract each other) that causes a "time-release AHA effect" and reduces the irritation associated with AHAs. A big molecule created from repeated subunits (a polymer of acrylic acid) that magically converts a liquid into a nice gel formula. It usually has to be neutralized with a base (such as sodium hydroxide) for the thickening to occur and it creates viscous, clear gels that also feel nice and non-tacky on the skin. No wonder, it is a very popular and common ingredient. Typically used at 1% or less in most formulations. If you have spotted ethylhexylglycerin on the ingredient list, most probably y what‑it‑does emollient | moisturizer/humectant moisturizer/humectant | emollient | viscosity controlling irritancy, com. moisturizer/humectant | emollient

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