medpeel Hydra-plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum 2.5%

medpeel Hydra-plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum 2.5% medpeel Hydra-plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum 2.5% ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Hyaluronic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Vegetable Ceramide (Glycosphingolipids), Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Show all ingredients by function Aqua (Water) solvent Hyaluronic Acid skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant goodie Ascorbyl Glucoside antioxidant, skin brightening Niacinamide cell-communicating ingredient, skin brightening, anti-acne, moisturizer/​humectant superstar Glycerin 0, 0 Vegetable Ceramide (Glycosphingolipids) emollient Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate antimicrobial/​antibacterial, preservative Xanthan Gum viscosity controlling Triethanolamine buffering 0, 2 Phenoxyethanol preservative Ethylhexylglycerin Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. It’s naturally in our skin and behaves there like a sponge It can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water It is a big molecule from repeated subunits (polymer) so different molecular weight versions exist (unfortunately there is no way to determine MW from INCI list only) High-molecular-weight-HA (>500 kDa) is an excellent surface hydrator, skin protectant and can act as an osmotic pump helping water-soluble actives to penetrate deeper into the skin Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500 kDa) can hydrate the skin somewhat deeper though it is still a big molecule and works mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin) Low-molecular-weight-HA might also help the skin to repair itself by increasing its self-defense (~ 200kDa used in the study) Ultra-low-molecular-weight-HA (<50kDa) is a controversial ingredient and might work as a pro-inflammatory signal molecule A form of skincare superstar, vitamin C. If you do not know why vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, we have a really detailed, geeky description that's good to read. :) So now you know that because pure vitamin C is such a diva (very unstable and hard to formulate) the cosmetic industry is trying to come up with some derivatives that have the badass anti-aging properties of vitamin C (antioxidant protection + collagen boosting + fading hyperpigmentation) but without the disadvantages. This is a hard task, and there is not yet a derivative that is really proven to be better in every aspect, but Ascorbyl Glucoside is one of the best options when it comes to vitamin C derivatives. Let's see why: First, it's really stable and easy to formulate, so the problems that come with pure vitamin C are solved here. Second, in vitro (meaning made in the lab, not on real humans) studies show that ascorbyl glucoside can penetrate the skin. This is kind of important for an anti-aging ingredient to do the job, so this is good news, though in-vivo (made on real humans) studies are still needed. Third, in-vitro studies show that after ascorbyl glucoside is absorbed into the skin it is converted to pure vitamin C (though the rate of conversion is still a question mark). It also shows all the three anti-aging benefits (antioxidant protection + collagen boosting + fading hyperpigmentation) that pure vitamin C does. Bottom line: ascorbyl glucoside is one of t what‑it‑does skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant antioxidant | skin brightening cell-communicating ingredient | skin brightening | anti-acne | moisturizer/humectant irritancy, com. antimicrobial/antibacterial | preservative

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