Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Product and ingredient reference

my series Peptide Serum

my series Peptide Serum my series Peptide Serum ingredients explained: Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Copper Tripeptide-L, Centella Asiatica Extract, Propanediol, Lactobacillus/Collagen/Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Leaf Extract Ferment Lysate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacr

my series Peptide Serum my series Peptide Serum ingredients explained: Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Copper Tripeptide-L, Centella Asiatica Extract, Propanediol, Lactobacillus/Collagen/Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Leaf Extract Ferment Lysate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyglutamic Acid, Himanthalia Elongata Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Madecassoside, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate Show all ingredients by function Aqua solvent Butylene Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, solvent 0, 1 Copper Tripeptide-L cell-communicating ingredient, soothing, antioxidant goodie Centella Asiatica Extract soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/​humectant Propanediol solvent, moisturizer/​humectant Lactobacillus/Collagen/Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Leaf Extract Ferment Lysate Phenoxyethanol preservative Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer viscosity controlling Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract soothing, emollient, moisturizer/​humectant Disodium EDTA chelating Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate moisturizer/​humectant Polyglutamic Acid Himanthalia Elongata Extract Sodium Hyaluronate skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 Carbomer Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 cell-communicating ingredient Madecassoside antioxidant, soothing Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. BTW, it’s also a food additive. GHK-Cu is a copper-peptide complex found naturally in yucky bodily fluids (plasma, saliva, and urine) It has unique wound healing properties by stimulating the breakdown of unhealthy, too large collagen in scar tissue and stimulating nice and healthy collagen production afterwards It stimulates the production of several important skin-identical ingredients (e.g. collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans) It has significant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effect There are a few promising studies showing GHK-Cu can improve skin elasticity, clarity, firmness and reduce lines and wrinkles It can improve hair growth by enlarging hair follicles (and bigger follicles produce longer, thicker hair) There are some urban legends about possible overdosing or facial hair problems (read more in geeky details) Centella Asiatica - or sometimes also called Gotu Kola or Cica - has been used in folk medicine for hundreds of years. It’s traditionally used to improve small wounds, burns and scratches and it’s also a well known anti-inflammatory agent for eczema. Recently science has taken an interest in Gotu Kola as well and it turns out it really has many active compounds with several benefits. Just for hard-core geeks, the main biologically active compounds are pentacyclic triterpenoid saponins called asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acid (also called centellosides). One of the biological activities of the centellosides is to be able to stimulate GAGs (glycosaminoglycans - polysaccharides that are part of the liquidy stuff between our skin cells), and especially hyaluronic acid synthesis in our skin. This is probably one of the reasons why Centella Asiatica Extrac what‑it‑does moisturizer/humectant | solvent irritancy, com. cell-communicating ingredient | soothing | antioxidant soothing | antioxidant | moisturizer/humectant solvent | moisturizer/humectant soothing | emollient | moisturizer/humectant moisturizer/humectant skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant antioxidant | soothing

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