Product and ingredient reference
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Moisturizer
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Moisturizer Paula's Choice Calm Redness Moisturizer ingredients explained: Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Petrolatum, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Squalane, Oat Kernel Extract
Paula's Choice Calm Redness Moisturizer Paula's Choice Calm Redness Moisturizer ingredients explained: Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Petrolatum, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Squalane, Oat Kernel Extract, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Ceramides, Whey Protein, Cholesterol, Linolenic Acid, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Linoleic Acid Show all ingredients by function Sodium Hyaluronate skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant 0, 0 goodie Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein moisturizer/humectant Petrolatum emollient Glycerin superstar Hydrogenated Lecithin emollient, emulsifying Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate skin brightening, antioxidant Squalane skin-identical ingredient, emollient 0, 1 Oat Kernel Extract antioxidant, soothing, emollient, abrasive/scrub Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl Ceramides skin-identical ingredient Whey Protein cell-communicating ingredient Cholesterol Linolenic Acid skin-identical ingredient, emollient, surfactant/cleansing, perfuming Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein Linoleic Acid skin-identical ingredient, emollient, surfactant/cleansing It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". Expand to read more In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. (We also checked Prospector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate and cheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid (including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). A chemically chopped up version of wheat protein that consists mainly of amino acids (the building blocks), peptides (a couple of amino acids together), and proteins (lots of amino acids together). It has moisturizing and film-forming properties and might be able to counteract the irritating effects of cleansing agents in cleansers and shampoos. It can also condition and repair damaged hair leaving it soft, silky and smooth. The famous Vaseline or Petroleum Jelly. Just like mineral oil, it is also a by-product of refining crude oil, aka petroleum, and it is also a mixture of hydrocarbons but with bigger (C18-90+) carbon chain length. The unique thing about petrolatum is that it is the most effective occlusive agent known today. While the occlusivity of mineral oil is in the same league as the occlusivity of plant oils, petrolatum is in a league of its own. It sits on top of the skin and hinders so-called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) like nothing else. This comes in handy healing cracked lips or severely dry skin patches, though overdoing it (i.e. reducing TEWL by more than 40%) is not good as it can create a nice moist place for fungi and bacteria to grow. As for petrolatum and safety, we can write here pretty much the exact same thin what‑it‑does skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant irritancy, com. moisturizer/humectant emollient | emulsifying skin brightening | antioxidant skin-identical ingredient | emollient antioxidant | soothing | emollient | abrasive/scrub skin-identical ingredient | emollient | surfactant/cleansing | perfuming skin-identical ingredient | emollient | surfactant/cleansing