REPLENIX Vitamin C Pro Collagen Serum

REPLENIX Vitamin C Pro Collagen Serum REPLENIX Vitamin C Pro Collagen Serum ingredients explained: Methyl Trimethicone, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Ascorbic Acid/Orange/Citrus Limon/Citrus Aurantifolia Polypeptides, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi (Bearberry) Leaf Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Purified Water, Orange Terpenes, Phospholipids, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Superoxide Dismutase, Ubiquinone (Coq-10), Phenoxyethanol Show all ingredients by function Methyl Trimethicone solvent Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate antioxidant, skin brightening goodie Cyclopentasiloxane emollient, solvent Trimethylsiloxysilicate emollient Ascorbyl Glucoside Ascorbic Acid antioxidant, skin brightening, buffering superstar Alpha-Arbutin Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract moisturizer/​humectant Ascorbic Acid/Orange/Citrus Limon/Citrus Aurantifolia Polypeptides Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi (Bearberry) Leaf Extract Ascorbyl Palmitate antioxidant 0, 2 icky Purified Water Orange Terpenes Phospholipids skin-identical ingredient, emollient Tocopheryl Acetate 0, 0 Retinyl Palmitate cell-communicating ingredient 1-3, 1-3 Superoxide Dismutase Ubiquinone (Coq-10) Phenoxyethanol preservative Methyl Trimethicone is a very light, volatile silicone (it evaporates from the skin rather than absorbs into it) that's similar to super commonly used Cyclopentasiloxane but it dries even faster when applied to the skin. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. We are massive vitamin C fans and have written about it in excruciating detail. So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it THDA in short). Expand to read more It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin but also have to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. In addition, vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in the case of THDA, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier. With this context in mind let's see what THDA might be able to do. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate, and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. Third, THDA seems to have all three magic abilities of pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has a skin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one published in-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% THDA. The authors theorized that the 10% AA is released slowly from the silicon delivery system and probably stays in the upper layer of the skin to give antioxidant benefits, while THDA penetrates more rapidly and deeply and gives some wrinkle-reducing benefits. The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment, and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. However, it is hard to know how much pure vitamin C or THDA can be thanked. Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be wort what‑it‑does antioxidant | skin brightening emollient | solvent antioxidant | skin brightening | buffering moisturizer/humectant irritancy, com. skin-identical ingredient | emollient

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