Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Product and ingredient reference

Rhea Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Rhea Hyaluronic Acid Serum Rhea Hyaluronic Acid Serum ingredients explained: Aqua, Glycerin, Ascorbic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate Show all ingredients by function Aqua solvent Glycerin skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0,

Rhea Hyaluronic Acid Serum Rhea Hyaluronic Acid Serum ingredients explained: Aqua, Glycerin, Ascorbic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate Show all ingredients by function Aqua solvent Glycerin skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 superstar Ascorbic Acid antioxidant, skin brightening, buffering Hyaluronic Acid goodie Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate preservative Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40% High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin Works best between a concentration of 5-20% Boosts the skin’s own collagen production Fades pigmentation and brown spots If used under sunscreen it boosts its UV protection Extremely unstable and oxidizes very easily in presence of light or air Stable in solutions with water only if pH is less than 3.5 or in waterless formulations Vit E + C work in synergy and provide superb photoprotection Ferulic acid doubles the photoprotection effect of Vit C+E and helps to stabilize Vit C Potent Vit. C serums might cause a slight tingling on sensitive skin It’s naturally in our skin and behaves there like a sponge It can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water It is a big molecule from repeated subunits (polymer) so different molecular weight versions exist (unfortunately there is no way to determine MW from INCI list only) High-molecular-weight-HA (>500 kDa) is an excellent surface hydrator, skin protectant and can act as an osmotic pump helping water-soluble actives to penetrate deeper into the skin Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500 kDa) can hydrate the skin somewhat deeper though it is still a big molecule and works mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin) Low-molecular-weight-HA might also help the skin to repair itself by increasing its self-defense (~ 200kDa used in the study) Ultra-low-molecular-weight-HA (<50kDa) is a controversial ingredient and might work as a pro-inflammatory signal molecule It's one of those things that help your cosmetics not to go wrong too soon, aka a preservative. Its strong point is being effective against yeasts and molds, and as a nice bonus seems to be non-comedogenic as well. It is safe in concentrations of less than 0.1% but is acutely toxic when inhaled, so it's not the proper preservative choice for aerosol formulas like hairsprays. Used at 0.1%, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate has an ex what‑it‑does skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant irritancy, com. antioxidant | skin brightening | buffering

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