Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Product and ingredient reference

Skin Research Youth Peptide Day Cream

Skin Research Youth Peptide Day Cream Skin Research Youth Peptide Day Cream ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Urea, Isoamyl Cocoate, Propylene Glycol, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Dicaprylyl Ether,

Skin Research Youth Peptide Day Cream Skin Research Youth Peptide Day Cream ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Urea, Isoamyl Cocoate, Propylene Glycol, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Squalane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helichrysum Stoechas Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soybean Fiber, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Cera Alba, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Allantoin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Parfum (Fragrance), Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA Show all ingredients by function Aqua (Water) solvent Glyceryl Stearate emollient, emulsifying 0, 1 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Urea skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant goodie Isoamyl Cocoate emollient Propylene Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, solvent 0, 0 Octocrylene sunscreen Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Dicaprylyl Ether emollient, solvent Glycerin superstar Cetyl Alcohol emollient, viscosity controlling 2, 2 Stearic Acid 0, 2-3 Sodium Lactate buffering, moisturizer/​humectant Squalane skin-identical ingredient, emollient Ethylhexyl Salicylate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Helichrysum Stoechas Extract 1,2-Hexanediol Caprylyl Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, emollient Hydrolyzed Soybean Fiber Borago Officinalis Seed Oil soothing, emollient Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil antioxidant, emollient Tocopheryl Acetate antioxidant Phenoxyethanol preservative Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Cyclopentasiloxane Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Cera Alba emollient, viscosity controlling, emulsifying, perfuming 0, 0-2 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil 0, 1-3 Allantoin soothing Cyclohexasiloxane Dimethicone Butylene Glycol Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer viscosity controlling Sodium Hyaluronate Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA Polyacrylamide C13-14 Isoparaffin emollient, viscosity controlling, solvent Laureth-7 emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing Parfum (Fragrance) perfuming icky Ethylhexylglycerin Disodium EDTA chelating Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid called stearic acid. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fatty acid molecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, "green" process that is similar to soap making. It's readily biodegradable. It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. As cosmetic chemist Colins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt". Glyceryl stearate citrate is similar to the super common skincare ingredient glyceryl stearate, and is similarly used to help combine waters and oils (emulsifier) and to make your skin feel nice and soft (emollient). The main difference between glyceryl stearate citrate and its cousin glyceryl stearate is that this one has a citric acid molecule also attached to its glycerin. This makes it what chemists call a diacylglycerol, which is a fancy word for two acids (in this case, citric acid and stearic acid) attached together with a glycerin bridge. But when it comes to cosmetics, all you need to know is that both glyceryl stearate citrate and glyceryl stearate are safe, tried and true emulsifiers. Expect to see them in formulas with both water-based and oil-based ingredients (think moisturizers and lotions). Yes, it's the thing that can be found naturally in pee. And in the skin. It is an awesome natural moisturizing factor, aka NMF. NMFs are important components that help the skin to hold onto water and keep it plump, elastic and hydrated. Urea makes up about 7% of NMFs next to other things such as amino acids (40%), PCA (12%) or Lactate (12%). What makes urea special, is that it is not only a simple moisturizer, but it is thought to be a "small-molecule regulator of epidermal structure and function" meaning that it has a bunch of extra biological activities. It acts as a mild keratolytic agent (some of its moisturizing action is thought to come from urea's ability to break down bonds in the protein called filaggrin and thus freeing up amino acids in the skin), enhances antimicrobial peptide expression and improves skin barrier function. Being a mild keratolytic agent and strong what‑it‑does emollient | emulsifying irritancy, com. skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant moisturizer/humectant | solvent emollient | solvent emollient | viscosity controlling buffering | moisturizer/humectant skin-identical ingredient | emollient moisturizer/humectant | emollient soothing | emollient antioxidant | emollient emollient | viscosity controlling | emulsifying | perfuming emollient | viscosity controlling | solvent emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing

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