Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Product and ingredient reference

The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid

The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Propanediol, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zinc Pca, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin

The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Propanediol, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zinc Pca, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Show all ingredients by function Aqua (Water) solvent Propanediol solvent, moisturizer/​humectant Betaine moisturizer/​humectant goodie Salicylic Acid exfoliant, anti-acne, soothing, preservative superstar Sodium Hyaluronate skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 Zinc Pca anti-acne, moisturizer/​humectant Phenoxyethanol preservative Hydroxyethylcellulose viscosity controlling Maltodextrin Sodium Hydroxide buffering Ethylhexylglycerin Biosaccharide Gum-1 soothing, moisturizer/​humectant Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chelating Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. A sugar beet-derived amino acid derivative with nice skin protection and moisturization properties. Betaine's special thing is being an osmolyte, a molecule that helps to control cell-water balance. It is also a natural osmoprotectant, meaning that it attracts water away from the protein surface and thus protects them from denaturation and increases their thermodynamic stability. It also gives sensorial benefits to the formula and when used in cleansers, it helps to make them milder and gentler. It's one of the gold standard ingredients for treating problem skin It can exfoliate skin both on the surface and in the pores It's a potent anti-inflammatory agent It's more effective for treating blackheads than acne For acne combine it with antibacterial agents like benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. (We also checked Prospector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found th what‑it‑does solvent | moisturizer/humectant moisturizer/humectant exfoliant | anti-acne | soothing | preservative skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant irritancy, com. anti-acne | moisturizer/humectant soothing | moisturizer/humectant

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