Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Product and ingredient reference

The Inkey List Caffeine Serum

The Inkey List Caffeine Serum The Inkey List Caffeine Serum ingredients explained: Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Jojoba Esters, Glyceryl Dibehenate, Albizia Julibrissin B

The Inkey List Caffeine Serum The Inkey List Caffeine Serum ingredients explained: Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Jojoba Esters, Glyceryl Dibehenate, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Squalane, Caffeine, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Phospholipids, Tribehenin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract, Polysorbate 60, Disodium Edta, Glyceryl Behenate, Butylene Glycol, Glycine Soja Sterols, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Carbomer, Darutoside, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Phenoxyethanol Show all ingredients by function Propanediol solvent, moisturizer/​humectant Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate emulsifying Cetyl Alcohol emollient, viscosity controlling 2, 2 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer viscosity controlling Jojoba Esters soothing, emollient, moisturizer/​humectant Glyceryl Dibehenate emollient Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract goodie Squalane skin-identical ingredient, emollient 0, 1 Caffeine antioxidant, perfuming Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax Phospholipids Tribehenin Ethylhexylglycerin preservative Xanthan Gum Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract Polysorbate 60 emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing Disodium Edta chelating Glyceryl Behenate emollient, emulsifying Butylene Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, solvent Glycine Soja Sterols Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate antimicrobial/​antibacterial, preservative Hyaluronic Acid skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant Carbomer Darutoside Polysorbate 20 0, 0 Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 cell-communicating ingredient Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 Phenoxyethanol Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. A so-called fatty (the good, non-drying kind of) alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. This long-named, polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits) is a helper ingredient that's good at emulsifying and stabilizing oils into water-based formulas. It also acts as a thickening and gelling agent that creates nice, non-sticky and supple textures. It works over a very wide pH range (3-12) and can be used to thicken up low-ph formulas, such as exfoliants. Its recommended used range is 0.3-3%. Jojoba-derived emollient wax esters (fatty acid + fatty alcohol) that make your skin feel nice and smooth. Chemically speaking, pure jojoba oil is also a wax ester (read our shiny explanation here), however, the ingredients called jojoba esters on the ingredient lists are made from jojoba oil and/or hydrogenated jojoba oil via interesterification. They have multiple versions with variable fatty acid chain length and the ingredient can have a liquid, a creamy, a soft or firm paste, or even a hard wax consistency. The common thing between all versions is, that unlike most normal triglyceride oils, jojoba esters have superior stability, provide non-greasy emolliency and are readily absorbed into the skin. The combination of glycerin + two behenic acid molecules that works as an oil-gelling agent, emulsion stabilizer, and high-performance compacting agent in pressed powders. We wrote a bit more at its little sis, glyceryl behenate. It seems to us that squalane is in fashion and there is a reason for it. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. olive), and in the sebum (the oily stuff our skin produces) of the human skin. As f.c. puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are "emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL prevention all with extreme cosmetic elegance". In other words, it's a superb moisturizer that makes your skin nice and smooth, without being heavy or greasy. Expand to read more Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. It is excellent for acne-prone skin and safe to use even if you have fungi-related skin issues, like seborrhea or fungal acne. The unsaturated (with double bond what‑it‑does solvent | moisturizer/humectant emollient | viscosity controlling irritancy, com. soothing | emollient | moisturizer/humectant skin-identical ingredient | emollient antioxidant | perfuming emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing emollient | emulsifying moisturizer/humectant | solvent antimicrobial/antibacterial | preservative skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant

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