Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

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The Inkey List Supersolutions 20% Niacinamide Serum

The Inkey List Supersolutions 20% Niacinamide Serum The Inkey List Supersolutions 20% Niacinamide Serum ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycerin, Phen

The Inkey List Supersolutions 20% Niacinamide Serum The Inkey List Supersolutions 20% Niacinamide Serum ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Zinc Pca, Polysorbate 60, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Show all ingredients by function Aqua (Water) solvent Niacinamide cell-communicating ingredient, skin brightening, anti-acne, moisturizer/​humectant superstar Butylene Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, solvent 0, 1 Squalane skin-identical ingredient, emollient goodie Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer viscosity controlling Glycerin skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 Phenoxyethanol preservative Benzyl Alcohol preservative, perfuming, solvent, viscosity controlling Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer Zinc Pca anti-acne, moisturizer/​humectant Polysorbate 60 emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing Ethylhexylglycerin Dehydroacetic Acid Sorbitan Isostearate emulsifying 0, 1-2 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chelating Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. A multi-functional skincare superstar with several proven benefits for the skin Great anti-aging, wrinkle smoothing ingredient used at 4-5% concentration Fades brown spots alone or in combination with amino sugar, acetyl glucosamine Increases ceramide synthesis that results in a stronger, healthier skin barrier and better skin hydration Can help to improve several skin conditions including acne, rosacea, and atopic dermatitis Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. BTW, it’s also a food additive. It seems to us that squalane is in fashion and there is a reason for it. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. olive), and in the sebum (the oily stuff our skin produces) of the human skin. As f.c. puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are "emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL prevention all with extreme cosmetic elegance". In other words, it's a superb moisturizer that makes your skin nice and smooth, without being heavy or greasy. Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. It is excellent for acne-prone skin and safe to use even if you have fungi-related skin issues, like seborrhea or fungal acne. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >> This long-named, polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits) is a helper ingredient that's good at emulsifying and stabilizing oils into water-based formulas. It also acts as a thickening and gelling agent that creates nice, what‑it‑does cell-communicating ingredient | skin brightening | anti-acne | moisturizer/humectant moisturizer/humectant | solvent irritancy, com. skin-identical ingredient | emollient skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant preservative | perfuming | solvent | viscosity controlling anti-acne | moisturizer/humectant emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing

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