Skin science article
Abib Collagen Eye Crème Jericho Rose Tube Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Eye Cream
Abib Collagen Eye Crème Jericho Rose Tube Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Collagen Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is form
Abib Collagen Eye Crème Jericho Rose Tube Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Collagen Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium DNA to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Octyldodecanol
Caprylyl Methicone
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Pentylene Glycol
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Behenyl Alcohol
Methylpropanediol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
1,2-Hexanediol
Panthenol
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Cetearyl Olivate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sorbitan Olivate
Glyceryl Stearate
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Stearyl Alcohol
Caprylyl Glycol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Squalane
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Xanthan Gum
Sorbitan Isostearate
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
Adenosine
Allantoin
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Lactobacillus Ferment
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Ceramide NP
Tocopherol
Collagen Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Bakuchiol
Caffeine
Trehalose
Dipropylene Glycol
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Butylene Glycol
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Phosphatidylcholine
Asiaticoside
Phytosphingosine
Asiatic Acid
Glycolipids
Madecassic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Sorbitol
Bifida Ferment Filtrate
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Octyldodecanol, Caprylyl Methicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Methylpropanediol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Stearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Squalane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Isostearate, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Adenosine, Allantoin, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lactobacillus Ferment, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Collagen Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bakuchiol, Caffeine, Trehalose, Dipropylene Glycol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Phosphatidylcholine, Asiaticoside, Phytosphingosine, Asiatic Acid, Glycolipids, Madecassic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sorbitol, Bifida Ferment Filtrate
Glycereth-26
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Pullulan
Vinyldimethicone
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sodium DNA
Polyisobutene
Propanediol
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Sorbitan Oleate
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract
Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
Cyanocobalamin
Citrus Nobilis Peel Extract
Retinol
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Lespedeza Capitata Leaf/Stem Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Hydrolyzed Extensin
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Copper Tripeptide-1
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycereth-26, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Pullulan, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Vinyldimethicone, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium DNA, Polyisobutene, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Propanediol, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Adenosine, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sorbitan Oleate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Citrus Nobilis Peel Extract, Retinol, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Lespedeza Capitata Leaf/Stem Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caffeine, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Extensin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is an emollient that helps make your skin smooth and hydrated. It specializes in creating a non-oily and "wet" feeling on skin.
This ingredient comes from isostearic acid, a saturated fatty acid. It is a synthetic ingredient.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!