Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

ACO Sun Ultra Light Face Fluid SPF 50+ Versus Paula's Choice Advanced Sun Protection Daily Moisturiser SPF 50 PA++++

ACO Sun Ultra Light Face Fluid SPF 50+ Versus Paula's Choice Advanced Sun Protection Daily Moisturiser SPF 50 PA++++ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients

ACO Sun Ultra Light Face Fluid SPF 50+ Versus Paula's Choice Advanced Sun Protection Daily Moisturiser SPF 50 PA++++

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Diisopropyl Sebacate

Dibutyl Adipate

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Tris-Biphenyl Triazine

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Propanediol

Silica

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

1,2-Hexanediol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Cetyl Alcohol

Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate

Sarcosine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Decyl Glucoside

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Citric Acid

Disodium Phosphate

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Dibutyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Tris-Biphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Propanediol, Silica, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate, Sarcosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Decyl Glucoside, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Benzoate

Propylheptyl Caprylate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

Undecane

Glycerin

Isononyl Isononanoate

Tridecane

Saccharomyces Ferment

Sodium Polyacrylate

Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether

Sodium Phytate

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Lauroyl Lysine

Propylene Glycol

Tocopherol

Naringenin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Undecane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Propanediol, Tridecane, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Saccharomyces Ferment, Sodium Polyacrylate, Decyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether, Sodium Phytate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Lauroyl Lysine, Propylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Naringenin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is better known as bemotrizinol or Tinosorb S and is one of the best broad-spectrum UV filters in modern sunscreen.

It works by absorbing UV light across a whole range (280-400 nm) with peaks around 310 nm (UVB) and 340-345 nm (UVA). This means it covers UVB plus the deeper UVA wavelengths that drive photoaging and pigmentation.

Another pro?

It's exceptionally photostable, barely degrades in sunlight, and acts as a "bodyguard" for less stable filters.

That's why you'll see it paired with avobenzone or octinoxate; this team up ensures they keep working through sun exposure.

Safety reviews have been reassuring across the board. This ingredient shows low absorption through the skin, rarely irritates, and lab studies found it doesn't act like a hormone in the body (a concern that's been raised about some older sunscreen filters).

On maximum concentrations:

In 2026, the US F.D.A finally added it as an OTC sunscreen ingredient at concentrations up to 6% for adults / children 6 months and older

Decyl Glucoside is a plant-derived surfactant and emulsion stabilizer. It is created by reacting glucose with the fatty acids from plants.

Like all surfactants, it works by lowering the surface tension between water and oil. This makes it so that dirt, sebum, and makeup can be lifted off your skin and rinsed away. It also produces a dense and creamy foam.

Because it has a neutral charge, it is compatible with a wide range of ingredients and stays stable across a broad pH range/water hardiness conditions.

Patch testing has shown it to have the lowest irritation potential among common cleansing surfactants (like SLS).

Typical use levels range from 5-20% in rinse-off cleansers.

One thing worth knowing: The American Contact Dermatitis Society named the parent family, alkyl glucosides, "Allergen of the Year" in 2017. The prevalence of allergy is pretty low but be sure to patch test if you've reacted to "gentle" or sulfate-free cleansers before.

This ingredient is fungal acne safe because the fatty alcohol portion of this ingredient is not within the C11-24 chain length that Malassezia can metabolize.

Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.

You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.

This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.

In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.

Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).

DHHB is well-liked for:

DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.

This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.

Ethylhexyl Salicylate (also called Octisalate or Octyl Salicylate) is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that's been used in sunscreen since the 1950's.

It absorbs UVB light in the 280-320 nm range with a peak absorbance around 306 nm.

You'll often see it paired with other UV filters to boost overall SPF because octisalate is a fairly week filter on its own.

The reason you'll see it so often is because it can help solubilize and stabilize the trickier filters like oxybenzone and avobenzone.

Unlike these filters, octisalate has pretty good photostability and doesn't create skin-damaging free radicals when exposed to sunlight.

The fatty-alcohol part of the molecule also gives it a light, emollient feel so it doubles as a nice texture enhancer.

Usage levels vary around the world:

Safety-wise, this ingredient has a pretty reassuring track record. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) found very low skin penetration in human skin tests and negative results for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.

The real-world allergy risk is pretty low too; a 2012 European study of 1,031 people recorded only 2 reactions to it (a rate of 0.19%).

You might have seen scary headlines about sunscreen getting into your blood.

In 2019, the FDA found that several chemical filters can absorb through the skin and show up in the bloodstream at small but measurable levels.

Here's the important part: these tiny levels are just a cutoff the FDA uses to decide which ingredients need more testing and doesn't mean anything harmful was found.

The researchers were clear that the results are no reason to stop wearing sunscreen.

Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.

This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.

Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.

It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.

Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.

In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.

Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.

As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Homosalate 10%
  2. 02Benzophenone-3 6%
  3. 03Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
  4. 04Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
  5. 05Octocrylene 2%
  6. 06Water
  7. 07Butylene Glycol
  8. 08PEG-8
  9. 09Polyethylene
  10. 10Silica
  11. 11Dimethicone
  12. 12Picrasma Excelsa Wood Extract
  13. 13Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
  14. 14Retinyl Palmitate
  15. 15Tocopherol
  16. 16Tocopheryl Acetate
  17. 17Titanium Dioxide
  18. 18Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
  19. 19Bentonite
  20. 20Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side