Paula's Choice Ceramide-enriched Firming Moisturizer

Paula's Choice Ceramide-enriched Firming Moisturizer Paula's Choice Ceramide-enriched Firming Moisturizer ingredients explained: Water, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Ascorbate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide NS, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide EOS, Cholesterol, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Squalane, Punica Granatum Extract, Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra, Vitis Vinifera, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carnosine, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Ceteareth-25, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Trideceth-6, Propyl Gallate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Behenic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin Show all ingredients by function Water solvent Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate antioxidant, anti-acne goodie Cetyl Alcohol emollient, viscosity controlling 2, 2 Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate emollient Potassium Cetyl Phosphate emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing Glyceryl Stearate emollient, emulsifying 0, 1 PEG-100 Stearate surfactant/​cleansing, emulsifying 0, 0 Glycerin skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant superstar PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1 Dimethicone Glyceryl Ascorbate antioxidant, moisturizer/​humectant Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate antioxidant, skin brightening Retinol cell-communicating ingredient Ceramide NP skin-identical ingredient Ceramide NS Ceramide AP Ceramide EOP Ceramide EOS Cholesterol skin-identical ingredient, emollient Caprooyl Phytosphingosine Caprooyl Sphingosine Squalane Punica Granatum Extract Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil preservative Glycyrrhiza Glabra soothing, skin brightening Vitis Vinifera antioxidant, emollient Tocopheryl Acetate antioxidant Carnosine antioxidant, cell-communicating ingredient Panthenol soothing, moisturizer/​humectant Sodium PCA Butylene Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, solvent Sodium Citrate chelating, buffering Ceteareth-25 Polysorbate 20 Ethylhexyl Stearate Sodium Hydroxide buffering Trideceth-6 Propyl Gallate antioxidant, perfuming Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer viscosity controlling Sodium Polyacrylate Behenic Acid Disodium EDTA chelating Phenoxyethanol Caprylyl Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, emollient Chlorphenesin preservative, antimicrobial/​antibacterial Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. The sodium salt form of skincare superstar, vitamin C. If you do not know what the big fuss about vitamin C is, you are missing out and you have to click here and read all the geeky details about it. Pure vitamin C (aka ascorbic acid, AA) is great and all, but its lack of stability is a big challenge for the cosmetics industry. One solution is to create stable derivatives that can be absorbed into the skin, convert there to AA and do all the magic AA is proven to do (which is being an antioxidant, a collagen booster, and a skin brightener). SAP (the vit C derivative, not the enterprise software, obvs) is a promising derivative that has great stability up to pH 7. The challenge with it though is skin penetration. Unfortunately, it seems to be limited, or to quote a great article from the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology "topically applied ascorbyl phosphate salts are, at very best, poorly absorbed in comparison with AA". Regarding conversion to AA, there seems to be no data about it, so we can neither deny nor confirm it. We have better news regarding the three magic abilities of vitamin C: there is in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that SAP does have photo-protective (aka antioxidant) properties, though less than pure AA. SAP might also aid collagen boosting; in-vitro (made in the lab) data shows that it works, but is less effective than another vitamin C derivative, called MAP (that seems to be as effective as pure AA). As for skin-brightening, there is a trade publication with in-vivo data showing that SAP can fade brown spots. Another thing SAP might be able to do is to help with acne. A 2005 study showed in vitro (in test tubes) that 1% SAP has a strong antimicrobial activity on evil acne causing P. acnes and it also showed in vivo (on real people) that 5% SAP can strongly improve the inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions of acne vulgaris. In fact, the results were comparable or even slightly better than with 5% benzoyl peroxide. And there is even more regarding SAP and acne. A nice double-blind study from 2009 showed that 5% SAP reduced the inflammatory lesions by 20.14% and 48.82% within 4 and 8 weeks respectively and when combined with 0.2% retinol the results were even better. With this combination treatment, the improvement was 29.28% after 4 weeks and 63.10% after 8 weeks of what‑it‑does antioxidant | anti-acne emollient | viscosity controlling irritancy, com. emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing emollient | emulsifying surfactant/cleansing | emulsifying skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant antioxidant | moisturizer/humectant antioxidant | skin brightening skin-identical ingredient | emollient soothing | skin brightening antioxidant | emollient antioxidant | cell-communicating ingredient soothing | moisturizer/humectant moisturizer/humectant | solvent chelating | buffering antioxidant | perfuming moisturizer/humectant | emollient preservative | antimicrobial/antibacterial

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