Skin science article
Advanced Clinicals Vitamin C Advanced Brightening Cream Versus Olay Niacinamide + Vitamin C Brightening Face Moisturiser
Advanced Clinicals Vitamin C Advanced Brightening Cream Versus Olay Niacinamide + Vitamin C Brightening Face Moisturiser This brightening body lotion is formulated around Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking ski
Advanced Clinicals Vitamin C Advanced Brightening Cream Versus Olay Niacinamide + Vitamin C Brightening Face Moisturiser
This brightening body lotion is formulated around Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Lactic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetearyl Alcohol
Paraffinum Liquidum
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Isopropyl Myristate
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Ceteareth-20
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Disodium EDTA
Ascorbic Acid
Ferulic Acid
Parfum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Trideceth-6
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene Glycol
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Paraffinum Liquidum, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Isopropyl Myristate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Ceteareth-20, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Ascorbic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Parfum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Trideceth-6, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide
Isohexadecane
Niacinamide
Dimethicone
Lactic Acid
Isopropyl Isostearate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Sodium Lactate
Panthenol
Behenyl Alcohol
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Dimethiconol
PEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Glucoside
Palmitic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Stearic Acid
Trehalose
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Water, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Lactic Acid, Isopropyl Isostearate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Panthenol, Behenyl Alcohol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dimethiconol, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Parfum, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Stearic Acid, Trehalose, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!