Skin science article
Clarins Multi-Active Day Cream Versus Olay Niacinamide + Vitamin C Brightening Face Moisturiser
Clarins Multi-Active Day Cream Versus Olay Niacinamide + Vitamin C Brightening Face Moisturiser This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This brightening moisturizer is form
Clarins Multi-Active Day Cream Versus Olay Niacinamide + Vitamin C Brightening Face Moisturiser
This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Lactic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Betaine
Propanediol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Niacinamide
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Glycerin
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Glucoside
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Propylene Glycol
Dimethicone
Parfum
Steareth-21
Caprylyl Glycol
Cellulose
Mica
CI 77891
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Disodium EDTA
Potassium Sorbate
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Butylene Glycol
Citric Acid
Eryngium Maritimum Extract
Marrubium Vulgare Extract
Dipsacus Sylvestris Extract
Phenethyl Alcohol
Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract
Sodium Citrate
Arbutus Unedo Fruit Extract
Tocopherol
Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Maris Sal
CI 17200
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Betaine, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Niacinamide, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Parfum, Steareth-21, Caprylyl Glycol, Cellulose, Mica, CI 77891, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Eryngium Maritimum Extract, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Dipsacus Sylvestris Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract, Sodium Citrate, Arbutus Unedo Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Maris Sal, CI 17200
Isohexadecane
Lactic Acid
Isopropyl Isostearate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Sodium Lactate
Panthenol
Behenyl Alcohol
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Dimethiconol
Palmitic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Stearic Acid
Trehalose
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Water, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Lactic Acid, Isopropyl Isostearate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Panthenol, Behenyl Alcohol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dimethiconol, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Parfum, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Stearic Acid, Trehalose, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Cetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.
Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.
Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.
Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!