AHC Beauty Essential Eye Cream for Face Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Eye Cream

AHC Beauty Essential Eye Cream for Face Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Borago Officinalis Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclopentasiloxane

Methylpropanediol

Betaine

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Glycerin

Cyclohexasiloxane

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Dimethicone

Cetearyl Alcohol

Polysorbate 60

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Panthenol

Squalane

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Parfum

Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycosyl Trehalose

Sorbitan Isostearate

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Butylene Glycol

Raffinose

Adenosine

Lecithin

Disodium EDTA

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Polyquaternium-51

Dipropylene Glycol

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Ceramide NP

Folic Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water

Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water

Cholesterol

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Collagen Extract

Propanediol

Alcohol

Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract

Phytosphingosine

Tromethamine

Maltodextrin

Acrylates Copolymer

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Tocopherol

Caprylyl Glycol

Lactic Acid

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Sorbitan Laurate

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Oryza Sativa Extract

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract

Primula Veris Extract

Malva Sylvestris Extract

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Veronica Officinalis Extract

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Rutin

Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Benzyl Alcohol

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Dipotassium Phosphate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Plankton Extract

Carbomer

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Ceramide AP

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Copper Tripeptide-1

Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol

Gluconolactone

Calcium Gluconate

Potassium Sorbate

Saussurea Involucrata Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Sodium Benzoate

Dehydroacetic Acid

Arginine Ferulate

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Disodium Phosphate

Acetic Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract

Retinol

Sodium Lactate

Magnesium PCA

Lysine

Leucine

Methionine

Valine

Serine

Sucrose

Cysteine

Proline

Histidine

Calcium Chloride

Taurine

Tryptophan

Asparagine

Formic Acid

1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide

Magnesium Citrate

Magnesium Chloride

Citrulline

Ammonia

Ornithine

Uric Acid

Tyrosine

Threonine

Phenylalanine

Potassium Hydroxide

Alanine

Arginine

Urea

Isoleucine

Maris Sal

Aspartic Acid

Glycine

Glucosamine Hcl

Glutamic Acid

Glutamine

Ceramide EOP

Benzyl Benzoate

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Methylpropanediol, Betaine, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Panthenol, Squalane, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Parfum, Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycosyl Trehalose, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Butylene Glycol, Raffinose, Adenosine, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyquaternium-51, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Ceramide NP, Folic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Cholesterol, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Collagen Extract, Propanediol, Alcohol, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract, Phytosphingosine, Tromethamine, Maltodextrin, Acrylates Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactic Acid, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sorbitan Laurate, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Oryza Sativa Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Primula Veris Extract, Malva Sylvestris Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Veronica Officinalis Extract, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Rutin, Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Benzyl Alcohol, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Dipotassium Phosphate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Plankton Extract, Carbomer, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ceramide AP, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Copper Tripeptide-1, Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Gluconolactone, Calcium Gluconate, Potassium Sorbate, Saussurea Involucrata Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Benzoate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Arginine Ferulate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Disodium Phosphate, Acetic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Retinol, Sodium Lactate, Magnesium PCA, Lysine, Leucine, Methionine, Valine, Serine, Sucrose, Cysteine, Proline, Histidine, Calcium Chloride, Taurine, Tryptophan, Asparagine, Formic Acid, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Magnesium Citrate, Magnesium Chloride, Citrulline, Ammonia, Ornithine, Uric Acid, Tyrosine, Threonine, Phenylalanine, Potassium Hydroxide, Alanine, Arginine, Urea, Isoleucine, Maris Sal, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Glucosamine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Glutamine, Ceramide EOP, Benzyl Benzoate

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Cetyl Palmitate

Nylon-12

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate

Persea Gratissima Oil

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

Morus Alba Root Extract

Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Phytosterols

Sodium PCA

Oleic Acid

Lysine Hcl

Hydrogenated Olive Oil

Euterpe Oleracea Sterols

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Phytic Acid

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

PCA

Pullulan

Sclerotium Gum

Sodium Citrate

Citric Acid

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Silica

Sorbitan Oleate

Chlorphenesin

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cetyl Palmitate, Nylon-12, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Squalane, Niacinamide, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Morus Alba Root Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Serine, Alanine, Proline, Arginine, Threonine, Phytosphingosine, Phytosterols, Sodium PCA, Glycine, Oleic Acid, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Lecithin, Adenosine, Sodium Lactate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Phytic Acid, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Glycerin, PCA, Betaine, Pullulan, Carbomer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Silica, Sorbitan Oleate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.

Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract is from a plant called the Rose of Jericho. This plane is found in the deserts of the Middle East and North Africa.

Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract has antioxidant properties. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil is from the seeds of the starflower plant. This plant grows primarily in Europe.

This oil does not have a scent. It contains fatty acids such as linolenic acid. These fatty acids help keep skin hydrated.

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.

You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.

The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.

Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.

Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.

It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.

EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.

What makes Ceramide EOP special is its ultra-long fatty acid chain; this unique structure allows it to bridge the lipid layers in your skin barrier to prevent water loss (something no other ceramide can do).

Low levels of Ceramide EOP have been found in people with eczema and psoriasis.

Using it together with other ceramides, cholesterol, and linoleic acid have been shown to meaningfully improve hydration and reduce water loss.

In one clinical study, a regimen using Ceramide EOP, NP, and AP led to significant symptom improvements in patients with eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin in just 4 weeks.

You'll usually see concentrations between 0.1-0.5% in formulations. Overall, this is a well-tolerated and safe ingredient for cosmetic use.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glutamic Acid is an amino acid that is found in all living organisms. Our bodies use this to help nerve cells in the brain communicate with other cells.

In cosmetics, glutamic acid is a famous humectant. It draws water from the air to your skin, keeping your skin hydrated (like hyaluronic acid).

An in-vitro study from 2024 found glutamic acid to play a role in inhibiting inflammation and thus a potential skin-soothing ingredient.

Other studies show it to be have potential wound healing, skin barrier repair, and hair growth properties.

Glutamic acid has poor solubility in water and other solvents.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.

Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.

Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.

Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.

More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:

Proline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.

It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.

Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.

Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Serine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.

Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.

Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.

This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.

High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.

Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (SLL) is a mild, plant-derived surfactant made by combining lauric acid with lactic acid.

It has two main jobs in a formula:

A perk of this ingredient is that it leaves skin feeling soft and silky after rinsing. This is why you'll even see it in baby washes.

Another perk? The lauric acid backbone gives it mild antimicrobial activity and lauric acid itself has been shown to suppress acne-causing bacteria in lab studies.

In 2023, scientists took a close look at how SLL behaves and found it can break apart the fatty outer layers of cells. This is basically why it cleans well and can fight off certain microbes.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has reviewed it and concluded it's safe as used.

A 2017 survey showed concentrations up to 10% are used in rinse-off cleansers and roughly 0.5-5% being typical in skincare.

Animal and reconstructed-skin testing found it to be non-irritating at 10%, and it's well tolerated even on sensitive skin. The only caveat is to patch test if you have a lactic acid allergy.

As a lactylate salt used at low co-emulsifier concentrations, this ingredient is less likely to break down and release free lauric acid on skin. This ingredient is fungal acne safe.

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.

As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.

This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Threonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.

Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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