Skin science article
AHC Beauty Safe On Light Sun Serum SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++
AHC Beauty Safe On Light Sun Serum SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredient
AHC Beauty Safe On Light Sun Serum SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dibutyl Adipate
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Alcohol Denat.
Niacinamide
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Butylene Glycol
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Peucedanum Graveolens Extract
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Hibiscus Abelmoschus Seed Extract
Thymus Serpyllum Extract
Achillea Millefolium Extract
Alpha-Arbutin
Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate
Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract
Xylitylglucoside
Gossypium Herbaceum Extract
Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract
Xylitol
Yeast Ferment Extract
Cichorium Intybus Root Extract
Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract
Orthosiphon Stamineus Extract
Thermus Thermophillus Ferment
Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Thymus Vulgaris Leaf Extract
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
Calamine
Chlorella Ferment
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Perilla Frutescens Extract
Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Adenium Obesum Leaf Cell Extract
Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Extract
Solidago Virgaurea Extract
Soluble Collagen
Caprylyl Methicone
Hexyl Laurate
Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate
Polysilicone-15
1,2-Hexanediol
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Silica
Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Isopropyl Myristate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide
Hydroxyacetophenone
C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane
Trehalose
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Adenosine
Propanediol
Allantoin
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Albatrellus Confluens Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Citric Acid
Glycerin
Ascorbic Acid
Madecassoside
Ectoin
Glutathione
Hydroxystearic Acid
Panthenol
Phenylethyl Resorcinol
Tranexamic Acid
Palmitoyl Glycine
Ellagic Acid
4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
Anhydroxylitol
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Dipotassium Phosphate
Acetyl Glutamine
Cerium Oxide
Hydrogen Dimethicone
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Biosaccharide Gum-4
Ceramide NP
Maltodextrin
Gluconolactone
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Cellulose Gum
Calcium Gluconate
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Disodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Benzoate
Mica
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Alcohol Denat., Niacinamide, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Butylene Glycol, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Peucedanum Graveolens Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Seed Extract, Thymus Serpyllum Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Alpha-Arbutin, Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Xylitylglucoside, Gossypium Herbaceum Extract, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Xylitol, Yeast Ferment Extract, Cichorium Intybus Root Extract, Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract, Orthosiphon Stamineus Extract, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Calamine, Chlorella Ferment, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Perilla Frutescens Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Adenium Obesum Leaf Cell Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Extract, Solidago Virgaurea Extract, Soluble Collagen, Caprylyl Methicone, Hexyl Laurate, Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate, Polysilicone-15, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Silica, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Isopropyl Myristate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Hydroxyacetophenone, C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Trehalose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Adenosine, Propanediol, Allantoin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Albatrellus Confluens Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Glycerin, Ascorbic Acid, Madecassoside, Ectoin, Glutathione, Hydroxystearic Acid, Panthenol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Tranexamic Acid, Palmitoyl Glycine, Ellagic Acid, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Anhydroxylitol, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dipotassium Phosphate, Acetyl Glutamine, Cerium Oxide, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Ceramide NP, Maltodextrin, Gluconolactone, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Cellulose Gum, Calcium Gluconate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Mica
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Oryza Sativa Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Monascus/Rice Ferment
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Decyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment
Aspergillus Ferment
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.
Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.
This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).
Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.
Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.
You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.
This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.
In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.
Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.
This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.
Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.
It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.
Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.
In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.
Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Ginseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.
In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.
One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.
Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.
There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.
Most products use fresh or white ginseng because it’s more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.
Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as “Panax ginseng” in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.
For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.
In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.
When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.
If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.