Skin science article
Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment Versus Jin Jung Sung Soothing Moisture Skin Essence
Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment Versus Jin Jung Sung Soothing Moisture Skin Essence This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness. This c
Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment Versus Jin Jung Sung Soothing Moisture Skin Essence
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
This calming essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isononyl Isononanoate
Caffeine
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Niacinamide
Lactobacillus Ferment
Cetearyl Olivate
Butylene Glycol
Polysorbate 60
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Marrubium Vulgare Extract
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Teprenone
Phospholipids
Hyaluronic Acid
Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Sphingolipids
Astaxanthin
Bisabolol
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil
Honey
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Ceramide NP
Phenyl T-Butylnitrone
Tocopherol
Glutathione
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Ergothioneine
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Carbomer
Sorbitan Olivate
Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Mica
Dextran
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
CI 77891
Ethylhexylglycerin
Isohexadecane
Maltodextrin
Polysorbate 80
Acetyl Tributyl Citrate
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sorbitan Oleate
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Glycolate
Polysorbate 20
Phenoxyethanol
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caffeine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Teprenone, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Sphingolipids, Astaxanthin, Bisabolol, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Honey, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ceramide NP, Phenyl T-Butylnitrone, Tocopherol, Glutathione, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Ergothioneine, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Sorbitan Olivate, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Mica, Dextran, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, CI 77891, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isohexadecane, Maltodextrin, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Glycolate, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, O-Cymen-5-Ol
Pentylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Soluble Collagen
Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
Propanediol
Cyclodextrin
Broussonetia Kazinoki Root Extract
Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract
Apium Graveolens Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Madecassoside
Allium Sativum Bulb Extract
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Leaf/Stem Extract
Avena Sativa Seed Extract
Ecklonia Cava Extract
Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Cucurbita Pepo Fruit Extract
Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract
Beta-Glucan
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Eruca Sativa Leaf Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hexapeptide-9
Hexapeptide-11
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-1
Copper Tripeptide-1
Adenosine
Tromethamine
Pulsatilla Koreana Extract
Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract
Usnea Barbata Extract
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycerin, Soluble Collagen, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Propanediol, Cyclodextrin, Broussonetia Kazinoki Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Apium Graveolens Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Madecassoside, Allium Sativum Bulb Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Leaf/Stem Extract, Avena Sativa Seed Extract, Ecklonia Cava Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Cucurbita Pepo Fruit Extract, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Eruca Sativa Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hexapeptide-9, Hexapeptide-11, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Adenosine, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Usnea Barbata Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!