Skin science article
alpyn beauty Super Peptide & Ghostberry Moisturizer Versus alpyn beauty Line-Filling Eye Cream with Bakuchiol and Caffeine
alpyn beauty Super Peptide & Ghostberry Moisturizer Versus alpyn beauty Line-Filling Eye Cream with Bakuchiol and Caffeine This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the s
alpyn beauty Super Peptide & Ghostberry Moisturizer Versus alpyn beauty Line-Filling Eye Cream with Bakuchiol and Caffeine
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Squalane
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Coconut Alkanes
C12-16 Alcohols
Propanediol
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Behenyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Symphoricarpos Albus Fruit Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Ceramide NP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide As
Ceramide AP
Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetearyl Olivate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract
Palmitic Acid
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Sorbitan Olivate
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Xanthan Gum
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract
Bisabolol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Tripeptide-29
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
2,3-Butanediol
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Cholesterol
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Coconut Alkanes, C12-16 Alcohols, Propanediol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Symphoricarpos Albus Fruit Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Xanthan Gum, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Bisabolol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Tripeptide-29, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, 2,3-Butanediol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cholesterol, Sodium Benzoate
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Mica
Titanium Dioxide
Bakuchiol
Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture
Euphrasia Officinalis Extract
Cetearyl Glucoside
Sorbitan Stearate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Linoleic Acid
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Caffeine
Potassium Sorbate
Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract
Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract
Tocopherol
Tin Oxide
Caesalpinia Sappan Bark Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
Ascorbic Acid
Ceramide Ng
Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Malva Officinalis Flower Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Coconut Alkanes, Glycerin, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Bakuchiol, Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture, Xanthan Gum, Euphrasia Officinalis Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Stearate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Linoleic Acid, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caffeine, Tripeptide-29, Potassium Sorbate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Tin Oxide, Caesalpinia Sappan Bark Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Ceramide Ng, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Malva Officinalis Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Coconut Alkanes is a lightweight, plant-derived emollient and solvent made from the fatty acids of coconut oil.
It spreads easily and adds a soft, silky, non-greasy slip, then evaporates rather than sinking into skin. Due to this behavior, it's prized as a natural and renewable replacement for silicones.
Typical use concentrations can go anywhere up to 20%.
The CIR Expert Panel has reviewed coconut oil and its hydrogenated derivatives and found them to be safe as used in cosmetics. It's a low-irritating and well-tolerated ingredient with no notable sensitization concerns.
Because it's a pure saturated hydrocarbon and not a free fatty acid or ester in the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on, it doesn't provide the lipids for Malassezia to feed on. This ingredient is generally regarded as safe for fungal acne.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.
You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.
According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:
One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.
Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tripeptide-29 is a synthetic peptide designed to support collagen production. It has skin conditioning properties and may help with improving skin texture, fine-lines, and hydration.
Due to its small molecular size, it can easily penetrate skin.
What makes this peptide unique is its purity and availability in a concentrated powder. Traditional peptides are derived from broken-down collagen in a process that produces many random peptides.
The manufacturer's lab tests show 3% of this ingredient increased collagen type I synthesis by 400% within 48 hours. However, this was done in-vitro (not tested on humans).
While the theory behind it is promising, its real-world effectiveness remains unproven, making it an interesting option for skincare enthusiasts but not a guaranteed solution.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.