Skin science article
alpyn beauty Super Peptide & Ghostberry Moisturizer Versus Beekman 1802 Bloom Cream Daily Moisturizer
alpyn beauty Super Peptide & Ghostberry Moisturizer Versus Beekman 1802 Bloom Cream Daily Moisturizer This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This bar
alpyn beauty Super Peptide & Ghostberry Moisturizer Versus Beekman 1802 Bloom Cream Daily Moisturizer
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Squalane
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Coconut Alkanes
C12-16 Alcohols
Propanediol
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Behenyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Symphoricarpos Albus Fruit Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Ceramide NP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide As
Ceramide AP
Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetearyl Olivate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract
Palmitic Acid
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Sorbitan Olivate
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Xanthan Gum
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract
Bisabolol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Tripeptide-29
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
2,3-Butanediol
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Cholesterol
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Coconut Alkanes, C12-16 Alcohols, Propanediol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Symphoricarpos Albus Fruit Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Xanthan Gum, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Bisabolol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Tripeptide-29, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, 2,3-Butanediol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cholesterol, Sodium Benzoate
Coco-Caprylate
Magnesium Sulfate
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
Caprae Lac
Colostrum
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Lactose
Milk Protein
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Honey
Eryngium Alpinum Flower Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Niacinamide
Whey Protein
Gluconolactone
Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
Zinc Stearate
Calcium Gluconate
Tocopherol
C10-18 Triglycerides
Lecithin
Water, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Caprylate, Propanediol, Magnesium Sulfate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Caprae Lac, Colostrum, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactose, Milk Protein, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Honey, Eryngium Alpinum Flower Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Whey Protein, Gluconolactone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Zinc Stearate, Glycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate, Tocopherol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Lecithin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Coconut Alkanes is a lightweight, plant-derived emollient and solvent made from the fatty acids of coconut oil.
It spreads easily and adds a soft, silky, non-greasy slip, then evaporates rather than sinking into skin. Due to this behavior, it's prized as a natural and renewable replacement for silicones.
Typical use concentrations can go anywhere up to 20%.
The CIR Expert Panel has reviewed coconut oil and its hydrogenated derivatives and found them to be safe as used in cosmetics. It's a low-irritating and well-tolerated ingredient with no notable sensitization concerns.
Because it's a pure saturated hydrocarbon and not a free fatty acid or ester in the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on, it doesn't provide the lipids for Malassezia to feed on. This ingredient is generally regarded as safe for fungal acne.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!