Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

alpyn beauty Super Peptide & Ghostberry Moisturizer Versus Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream

alpyn beauty Super Peptide & Ghostberry Moisturizer Versus Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair mois

alpyn beauty Super Peptide & Ghostberry Moisturizer Versus Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Squalane

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Coconut Alkanes

C12-16 Alcohols

Propanediol

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Behenyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Symphoricarpos Albus Fruit Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Ceramide NP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

1,2-Hexanediol

Cetearyl Olivate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract

Palmitic Acid

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Sorbitan Olivate

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Xanthan Gum

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract

Bisabolol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Tripeptide-29

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

2,3-Butanediol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Cholesterol

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Coconut Alkanes, C12-16 Alcohols, Propanediol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Symphoricarpos Albus Fruit Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Xanthan Gum, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Bisabolol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Tripeptide-29, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, 2,3-Butanediol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cholesterol, Sodium Benzoate

Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Dimethicone

Diisostearyl Malate

Myristyl Myristate

Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Inositol

Sorbitan Tristearate

Beheneth-20

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Betaphycus Gelatinum Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract

Thymus Serpyllum Extract

Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract

Gold

Sericin

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Tocopherol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Sorbitan Isostearate

Polysorbate 60

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Gluconolactone

Ethylhexylglycerin

Parfum

Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Citral

Limonene

Linalool

Mica

Tin Oxide

CI 77891

CI 60725

Water, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Squalane, Diisostearyl Malate, Behenyl Alcohol, Myristyl Myristate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Inositol, Sorbitan Tristearate, Beheneth-20, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Betaphycus Gelatinum Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract, Thymus Serpyllum Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Gold, Sericin, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Gluconolactone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Mica, Tin Oxide, CI 77891, CI 60725

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).

Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.

Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.

In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side