Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

AlumierMD Microderm Polish Versus PCA Skin Daily Exfoliant

AlumierMD Microderm Polish Versus PCA Skin Daily Exfoliant What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Hydrated Silica Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine Propanediol Glycerin Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

AlumierMD Microderm Polish Versus PCA Skin Daily Exfoliant

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Hydrated Silica

Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

Propanediol

Glycerin

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Jojoba Esters

Coco-Glucoside

Cetearyl Olivate

Glycol Distearate

Glyceryl Oleate

Sorbitan Olivate

Glyceryl Stearate

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylic Acid

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Xylitol

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hydroxide

Limonene

Sodium Chloride

Benzoic Acid

Citral

Linalool

Tetrasodium EDTA

Citric Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Hydrated Silica, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Propanediol, Glycerin, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Jojoba Esters, Coco-Glucoside, Cetearyl Olivate, Glycol Distearate, Glyceryl Oleate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic Acid, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xylitol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Limonene, Sodium Chloride, Benzoic Acid, Citral, Linalool, Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

Cellulose Acetate

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Acrylates Copolymer

Sodium Cocoamphoacetate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Benzyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Bisabolol

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Sclerotium Gum

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Water, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Propanediol, Cellulose Acetate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Acrylates Copolymer, Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Benzyl Alcohol, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Bisabolol, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Tetrasodium EDTA, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine is a synthetic cleansing agent, though it is derived from coconut oil.

It is used to enhance the texture of products by boosting lather and thickening the texture. As a cleanser, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine is mild.

Coco-Glucoside is a surfactant, or a cleansing ingredient. It is made from glucose and coconut oil.

Surfactants help gather dirt, oil, and other pollutants from your skin to be rinsed away.

This ingredient is considered gentle and non-comedogenic. However, it may still be irritating for some.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Oleate is the monoester of glycerin and oleic acid. It is a skin-conditioning emollient that also helps form emulsions.

What makes glyceryl oleate special is its "re-fatting" effect.

When you wash your hair and skin with a surfactant-based cleanser, the surfactants grab onto everything. This includes your skin's natural lipids, or the fats that live in your skin barrier and sebum. Once you rinse these surfactants away, it leaves your skin feeling tight, dry, and clean (in a not-good way).

Re-fatting is essentially putting some of these lipids back. Glyceryl oleate deposits a thin layer of emollient lipids back on the skin or hair surface reduce some of the barrier damage.

Also, glyceryl oleate isn't a foreign molecule to your skin. It's chemically identical to something your skin already produces and manages naturally. This is why it tends to be well-tolerated with low risk of irritation.

Typical use levels range from 0.5-5%.

Glyceryl Oleate has a function of "perfuming" in the CosIng database. This just means that the ingredient has some scent character that can contribute to the product's overall smell.

The scent of this ingredient is described as "waxy".

As an ester of oleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. This is because oleic acid falls into the carbon-chain length that Malassezia can use as a substrate.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate is a surfactant that helps water and oil mix so that dirt, sweat, sebum, and sunscreen can rinse away easily. It's not technically a sulfate, but behaves similarly in formulas.

What it does:

Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate is a strong cleansing surfactant and is much stronger than many mild cleansers. Because it works deeply, it can disrupt the skin's barrier. This can lead to dryness or irritation for those with sensitive skin.

Compared to gentler surfactants, it's effective but more likely to dry or irritate if not balanced with soothing ingredients.

CIR considers sodium α-olefin sulfonates (including C14-16) to be safe for use in rinse-off products when properly formulated. It is poorly absorbed through normal skin but absorption increases if the skin barrier is already damaged.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tetrasodium EDTA is the salt formed from neutralizing ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid with sodium hydroxide. It is a chelating agent and used to prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps keep the product and ingredients stable.

Tetrasodium EDTA comes as a white solid and is soluble in water.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  7. 07Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  8. 08In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  9. 09While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  10. 10Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  11. 11This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  12. 12This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  13. 13Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  14. 14Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  15. 15Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  16. 16Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
  17. 17You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
  18. 18These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
  19. 19This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
  20. 20Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

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03

Comparison edit

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