Skin science article
AMPLE:N Ceramide Shot Ampoule Versus Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster
AMPLE:N Ceramide Shot Ampoule Versus Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster This barrier-repair ampoule is formulated around Beta-Glucan and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This hydrating treatment is formulated around Sodium Hyalu
AMPLE:N Ceramide Shot Ampoule Versus Paula's Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster
This barrier-repair ampoule is formulated around Beta-Glucan and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This hydrating treatment is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Propanediol
Diglycerin
Beta-Glucan
1,2-Hexanediol
Betaine
Methyl Gluceth-20
Niacinamide
Octyldodecanol
Trehalose
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Xylitylglucoside
Ceramide NP
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Anhydroxylitol
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Arginine
Xylitol
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
Allantoin
Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Brassica Campestris Sterols
Cholesterol
Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide EOP
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Diglycerin, Beta-Glucan, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Methyl Gluceth-20, Niacinamide, Octyldodecanol, Trehalose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xylitylglucoside, Ceramide NP, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Anhydroxylitol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Arginine, Xylitol, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Cholesterol, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide EOP
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Ceramide AP
Phytosphingosine
Yeast Extract
Panthenol
Silanetriol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Polysorbate 20
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Yeast Extract, Adenosine, Cholesterol, Panthenol, Silanetriol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.
It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.
EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.
What makes Ceramide EOP special is its ultra-long fatty acid chain; this unique structure allows it to bridge the lipid layers in your skin barrier to prevent water loss (something no other ceramide can do).
Low levels of Ceramide EOP have been found in people with eczema and psoriasis.
Using it together with other ceramides, cholesterol, and linoleic acid have been shown to meaningfully improve hydration and reduce water loss.
In one clinical study, a regimen using Ceramide EOP, NP, and AP led to significant symptom improvements in patients with eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin in just 4 weeks.
You'll usually see concentrations between 0.1-0.5% in formulations. Overall, this is a well-tolerated and safe ingredient for cosmetic use.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.